Kalalau Trail

THE EARTH'S NATURAL TOUGH MUDDER

Kalalau Trail is one of the most beautiful hike's I've ever been on, but make sure that you are at least in average shape before you set out on this journey otherwise you are in a world of hurt. It's not an easy hike. There are plenty of ascents and descents. It's definitely doable, but the better shape you are in, the more you will enjoy it.

A few helpful housekeeping rules are 1) allow for ample time to enjoy the hike. I had three days there and regretted not being able to spend more time at Kalalau Beach. 2) Be sure to bring toilet tissue. That may be a no brainer for a lot of you, but I haven't camped out a lot and the first time I ever camped was at (Havasupai) and they had toilet paper so I thought that was the norm. 3) Watch out for flash floods. No, I didn't experience one, but I recently read over 100 people had to be flown out because the raising water that failed to subside. 4) There are plenty of streams to fill up your water bottles, but make sure you treat the water. I'm told that the water untreated will make you sick. We used iodine tablets. Never again will I do that. It left the water tasting horrid. I will go the filter route even though I'm told the filter may not catch everything. 5) Don't camp near the cliffs. The mountain goats love to send projectiles towards the avid camper. You may end up with a cracked skull. 6) Take care when swimming at the beach during the winter. There are strong currents. 7) If you pack it in, pack it out. The trash is getting out of hand.

For more information, visit http://www.theplanetraveler.com/?p=22

This hike was amazing! We took our time and really took it all in and had a great time. This is not a quick hike, plan to take your time. We only did the part that takes you to the beach, and it was beautiful. Overall it took us about 4.5 hours in total to hike out and back. The hike is pretty difficult just because of the muddy conditions but the views were totally worth it for us!

We wore hiking boots which was very helpful with the mud and rocks. I saw a lot of people in sandals and I'm not sure that's a good idea. You need protective water shoes at least. I suggest really researching the hike before you go so you can prepare how you need to.

We purchased bus and park admission tickets through the Ha'ena State Park website and it was a great experience. Parking was really limited at the park and honestly the drive in is not the easiest if you're not used to Kauai roads.

I totally messed up my journey for this Kalalau Trail. Actually, I misinterpreted what the rules and instructions were. Let me explain...

First off, because Kalalau Trail is so popular with tourists nowadays, they limit daily access and you must make reservations for hiking it. Let me go into what the reservations are about...

You have to visit the website...gohaena.com...to book your spot. You can sign up for the day you're interested in hiking 30 days in advance. Within the 30 days...at specifically midnight Hawaii time is when available reservation signups start.

And...for the most popular choice (driving to the trailhead at your own accord with your private vehicle), reservations sell out within minutes, like the first 2 minutes and then they're gone.
You really have to be quick refreshing the site - gohaena.com starting at 11:59pm Hawaii time.
Worst case scenario if they sell out for driving your vehicle, what's always available as the next best alternative is being picked up by a shuttle bus at predetermined locations and the shuttle bus driving you to the Kalalau Trailhead Parking Lot.
I had read that depending on where you're picked up by the bus, the drive/commute can be anywhere from 30 - 45 minutes each way. Shuttles run every 20 minutes daily from 6:20am - 5:40pm.

For those folks who may be unsure what time midnight Hawaii is equal to for where they live, here are the numbers...
12am Hawaii = 3am California = 4am Colorado = 5am Texas = 6am New York.
So...you must set your alarm wherever you may be.

Also, for more details about what this Kalalau Trail is about and for what you can expect on your visit, I suggest checking out the website - kalalautrail.com.

Just say you do get the private vehicle entry pass...you then have 3 options of times to pick from for entry...6:30am - 12:30pm, 12:30pm - 5:30pm and 4:30pm - sunset.
I visited back in the middle of August and the sun set around 6pm so I don't know who would ever choose the 4:30pm reservation? I picked the 6:30am reservation slot to get started ASAP.

Now...here's where I confused EVERYTHING...
- I assumed my reservation starting at 6:30am meant I had to exit Kalalau Trail by 12:30pm so the 12:30pm reservation people could have the available parking spots considering how small the lot is at the trailhead.
So ultimately...I assumed I only had 6 hours of hiking and exploring time.
But I was wrong about this! I spoke with a local of the area and he said once you've parked with your reservation time...you have the entire day to enjoy Kalalau Trail! You don't have to exit by 12:30pm. Grrr! I wish the reservation instructions were more clear about this!
All 6:30am - 12:30pm is good for is scanning your barcode at the entrance gate. This brings me to my next point...

When here at Kalalau Trail...almost all tourists hike 2 miles to Hanakapi'ai Beach and then venture another 2 miles from the beach to Hanakapi'ai Falls. That's the primary itinerary for all visitors. It's a total of 8 miles roundtrip and takes up a good portion of the day.

Where my story comes into play is...I lazily didn't show up at Kalalau Trail until 8am which (in my head) meant I only had 4.5 hours worth to make it to and from Hanakapi'ai Falls.
By the time I arrived at Hanakapi'ai Beach it was already 10:30am and I knew I'd never be able to reach the falls and back to the parking lot by 12:30pm. Unfortunately, at 10:30am I returned back when essentially I had the remainder of the day to go to Hanakapi'ai Falls.
Don't be fooled by the 6:30am - 12:30pm timeslot. Once entered, you have all day!

Now, also, it's pretty confusing (in my opinion) how this Kalalau Trail navigates along. Let me explain...
- Kalalau Trail is located within Ha'ena State Park.
- Ha'ena State Park is located within Na'Pali Coast State Wilderness Park.
I don't understand the logic behind that? What park is situated within what park? I'm confused, lol.

Here's my experience hiking the 2 miles (each way) from the trailhead to Hanakapi'ai Beach...
- The hike is moderate. Along the way there are fantastic views of the Na'Pali coastline and turquoise blue waters.
- Just before arriving at Hanakapi'ai Beach, you must cross a river. Be prepared to probably get your shoes wet and having to step on slippery rocks.
- Hanakapi'ai Beach was just okay. It wasn't scenic or special. The waters at the beach were pretty rugged. I later read that Hanakapi'ai is a dangerous beach to go swimming in. There's no lifeguard and riptide currents appeared rough.
- Then from Hanakapi'ai Beach the hiking sign stated it's a strenuous 2 more miles to Hanakapia'ia Falls. Unfortunately I never experienced that, but I heard from others the waterfall is terrific and well worth the trek.
You can venture further past Hanakapi'ai Falls as this Kalalau Trail goes for 11miles each way to Kalalau Beach.

Since space is limited, I'll end things here. Overall, this Kalalau Trail wasn't the easiest experience for me.

My 5 th time on this trail! I told myself last time, this was the last time. But,like all things Kauai,she continues to draw you back in.
Although,things are changing rapidly. I'm talking fast!

The first time I came here was 1991. There were about 5 cars in the parking lot and everything was leisurely and uncrowded.

No longer. You have to make a reservation one month in advance and still park remotely. For a few,you ride the shuttle to the state park and across the trail from there

The trail can be brutal but it's beautiful. The island is having a dry spell this year and the usual muddy slippery trail wasn't bad

One of my favorite places on earth. If you wanna go..do it soon...worth it

Go!

The Kalalau Trail is an excellent hiking trail and provides access to the Napali Coast, which is otherwise only seen from the mountains inland and above (via a road from the south shore), the air, or the sea.

This is accessed from the trail head at Ha'ena State Park on the north shore, at the northern end of the Kuhio Highway, which goes no further.

Non-Hawaii residents (no Hawaii driver's license) must book a specific day and ticket in advance, either walk-in (few and rare), drive-in and park (few and limited to part of the day), or shuttle (far more numerous if you book in time, but requiring a specific time for entry, and other restrictions as found in detail on the Go Ha'ena website).

The trail is about 11 miles long in total, but after the first 2 miles, up to Hanakapi'Ai Beach, one needs a separate camping permit, even if not camping. At Hanakapi'Ai, though, one may also hike about another 2 miles up river to Hanakapi'Ai Falls. We only did the stretch to Hanakapi'Ai Beach and then to the falls.

There are some significant ups and downs but these are generally not too bad and the Kalalau Trail up to Hanakapi'Ai Beach is in good condition. To the falls, the trail at times becomes vague and there are a few different branches one may take, not always evident. This trail requires crossing the stream at times.

On any part of the trail, the most difficult factor is the fact that parts of it can often be muddy and slippery. The places where one must ford the stream when going to the falls can also be more difficult and it is best to avoid getting in the water to the extent possible in order to avoid leptospirosis. It can therefore be challenging for some.

We found that if going at a good pace and not dilly-dallying, it took us about 1 hr 15 min each way on each leg - to Hanakapi'Ai Beach and then again to the falls, or 5 hours in total. We took longer on the first stretch because we were sightseeing and taking in the nice views which one may periodically get on the coast. We also stopped to have lunch at the beach.

The falls are pretty good, but they are nothing special to us. The best thing to see is the lovely view of the NaPali Coast, and that is the main reason why we came.

There are toilets just a bit inland from the beach.

I only did the first 2 miles of Kalalau Trail and then another 2 miles to the Hanakapiai Falls, as you do not need a camping permit for that first part. The stretch getting to Hanakapiai Falls can be challenging at times but once you see and reach the waterfall, it is totally worth it! Best to allow at least 6-7 hours (half-a-day) altogether.

Now, I did not do the other 9 miles, as you do need a camping permit beyond the first 2 miles of Kalalau Trail (regardless if you are staying overnight or not) and from what I have read, it is very difficult and challenging.

Generally, you have to start at Ha'ena State Park to get to the trailhead, and if you are an out-of-town visitor, you would need to make a reservation and pay the park fees. If you are a Hawaii resident, you can go anytime the park is open and show the staff a valid Hawaii State Driver's License or Hawaii State ID.

There are nice views of the Napali Coastline along the way, but most of the time you have to go through trees, brush, and at times, muddy trails. If you are going up to the Hanakapiai Falls, there are numerous stream crossings so be prepared to get wet at times and do not cross if there are flash flood warnings.

Make sure you have good hiking shoes that can grip well, pack water, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and some snacks. Other helpful things include hiking sticks, and waterproof bags.

The best hiking experience we had. It has such good views that you dont feel tired by the hike. Coastline views are magnificent.
Make sure you have right shoes for the hike and plenty of water. Hike is little difficult and has much up and downs so be prepared.
Beach at the 2 mile nark is amazing and thats where we went and then returned back.

Wowza! This is a no-joke trail. The first two miles are well traveled and super easy to navigate. This is for the miles past the bathrooms once you start on the Kalalau trail section.

In full disclaimer, I should note I was told many times over that I should pack light and even bring micro spikes. However, I'm a day hiker not a backpacker so I wanted things, lol. I packed WAY too heavy, at least 15 pounds too heavy. I've heard mixed reviews on the spikes so I opted not to use them, probably my only regret, I wish I would have tried in retrospect. I've heard they can tear up the trail so I didn't use them.

The condition of the trail is wildly challenging almost the entire way. It's about 5,000 feet in elevation overall for the full 11 miles out. It is a constant up and down; which I expected and was fine. My personal issue with the trail is the lack of traction on the trail itself. It is silty, sandy, loose ground that it is wicked challenging when on the steep terrain to constantly feel like you are gripping to the side of the mountain by your toes. I wear pretty aggressive tread and use poles and I still felt this way. This is all about comfort and capability. I found out in a humbling way that this is out of my comfort zone in a way that felt down right dangerous.

Everyone always talks about crawlers ledge around mile 7 but from what I've seen this is rock - it would be an improvement to have solid ground under you rather than loose terrain where you generally feel like you are going to slide right off the path. Just my opinion though.

It is incredibly beautiful. It is worth going as far as you feel comfortable; I don't regret one moment on the trail. I turned around about 5.5 miles which is a bummer to have gotten so close to Hanakoa (mile 6 camp) but I knew I was DONE. You need to watch your footing almost the entire time, this is an actively engaged trail. I was shocked how tired I was by the end of the day as this was not the first time I've done this kind of mileage. The trail is fairly overgrown in brush all along the single track path that meanders through the mountain. This is mildly challenging since it is single track and overgrown it cuts into the available foot space for your person on the trail.

My recommendation for anyone taking on this challenge; pack as light as possible seriously, use trekking poles, wear micro spikes, and bring plenty of water the trail is very dry this summer with not as many tributaries as usual for water filtration.

Go Ha'ene has done an excellent job of restricting & charging tourists, while providing those with a HI driver's license free access. If they were truly doing what their mission statement says, then all access would first come, first serve.

This was a favorite hike every year since we have owned on Kauai (15+ years), but the Aloha is gone. Replaced with the typical reaction from new residents: keep future residents out.

I did the whole trail which was 22 miles in one day on 6/26. Took 14 hours start to finish (my actual mileage came out to be ~25 miles w/ 12.5 hours hiking time, details below). I'll cover all aspects of the hike here so it'll help you whether you're considering doing the Kalalau trail in one day or spread it over multiple days.

My verdict: view wasn't worth the effort. The mountains are very dry looking, nothing like the lush vegetation you see in pictures (maybe because it's summer time?). Ocean and cliff are nice but that's something you can find on other Hawaiian islands.

My baseline, expectation vs. reality: I did Kilimanjaro in 5 days and the O Circuit in Torre del Paine in 3.5 days. I have a track record of managing long and strenuous day hikes. This trail was more exhausting than I expected (partially due to getting lose and running out water - see "Thing to know" section below).

Difficulty level:
- Weather: I lucked out with dry weather and some clouds in the afternoon so I didn't burn up the way I otherwise would on an entirely sunny day. The trail is 50/50 shaded/exposed, and the exposed areas can get really hot, so remember to reapply sunscreen.

- Ground condition/shoe recommendation: not maintained, lots of gravel in the last ~6 miles. Given that you spend 80% of your time walking on a narrow path alongside a cliff, you need grippy shoes. I wore gym shoes w/ good grip and made it through, but hindsight I should have gone w/ hiking boots. Trail runners can be okay but you gotta go with the performance type w/ thicker bottom and above average grip for a trail runner. Almost everyone had hiking poles, I didn't use any and did just fine. If you have a heavy pack though, consider them.

- Elevation changes: the trail goes up and down a few times (you're traversing the mountain). There are no one dramatic ascend/descend but after doing a couple, it starts to add up. IMPORTANT NOTE if you're doing this trail in ONE DAY: it is NOT easier or faster coming back like most hikes you're done due to the way the trail is. You will feel exhausted and the last ~4 miles will feel like an eternity.

A word on Crawler's Ledge:
As long as you're not afraid of heights, it's more perceived danger than anything. Watch your step, be steady, and you'll be fine.

Things to know:
- The trail isn't well marked - don't expect more than a few markers throughout. I got lost TWICE, which added ~1 - 1.5 hours to the hikes and caused higher energy and water consumption. Pay very close attention and make sure you stay on trail.

- Pack at least 5 liters of water + electrolyte. I had 5.5 liters/pp but ran out with 4 miles to go on the way back. This is largely due to getting lose early on and having a hot morning. Dehydration is the WORST thing that can happen and will slow you down considerably. Plan well. You can also cleanse stream water and that's the way to go if you're doing this trail over multiple days since it's impossible to carry more than 1 day of water.

- Choose what food you pack wisely. Beef jerky was great for energy boost but very salty, so you consume more water.

- If you're doing the hike in one day, start EARLY. We started around 6:30am and got back a little after 8:30pm. Avoid hiking in the dark - it's pitch dark and we spend a minute finding the parking lot on the way out. On that note, take a headlamp just in case.

- There is NO RECEPTION the entire way even at the trail head. Inform people of your plan to hike this trail ahead of time.

- Wear long pants. You're going through tight tree branches.

About permit and parking:
You need an overnight permit to do the entire trail, whether you're staying overnight or not. Permits sell out way in advance so plan ahead. You need a separate parking permit (unless you're a Hawaii resident) to park at the trail head. If you don't, you'll need to park at Ke'e beach which adds distance to your hike.

If you're debating a 1-day hike vs. camping overnight at Kalalau beach:
Kalalau beach is, IMO, an average beach by Hawaii standard. It's a nice white sand beach and quite, but nothing out of this world. There is a waterfall at the end, which is again nice but not spectacular (see pics). IMPORTANT: there's no cell phone reception at the camp sites. If you need to be connected to the outside world, think twice about camping here.

I likely won't return since there are more beautiful/interesting hikes out there.

It is tough, 11+ miles out with 4,000 feet of climbing on a trail that is often rocky and sometimes muddy. There is a lot of exposure, nothing that is technically challenging, but could be mentally challenging if you don't feel comfortable (it was fine for us). You would definitely want to be feeling fit before you go in order to enjoy it.

We were out for three nights, which I think is pefect. We hiked all the way out in a day and stayed at the beach two nights (we day hiked the next day up to the pools, which are very nice). The camping is nice, with a waterfall for fresh water collection and washing. The ocean is pretty rough, so not great for swimming.

Then we hiked out in two days, camping at the midway point (Hanakoa), which is pretty nice. The 1/2 mile hike to the Hanakoa Falls and large pool is an ABSOLUTELY MUST, but stay back from the cliff edges as there is falling rock. Be aware that there are mosquitoes at those sites and pigs (put all your stuff up high).

There are bathrooms (composting toilets) at both camping areas, and they are pretty disgusting, but definitely better than all those people pooping in the woods. The trail could definitely benefit from more attention and maybe a camp host.

Finally, be prepared for the tour helicopters. This was probably the aspect of the hike for us that was the most disappointing and unexpected. They are buzzing by all day long and many fly inland so it is really noisy. Not what we expected from a wilderness area.

I'm glad we did it, the views are absolutely astonishingly beautiful and the trail is cool and a great challenge. Everyone we met was very nice. Hanakoa Falls is incredible and the beach camping was cool. Probably wouldn't do it again, though.

p.s. Permits are REQUIRED past the 2-mile marker and to camp. In summer, the beach can also be accessed via sea kayak, but you still need a permit.