John "I am NOT a food snob" L.'s Profile

Somebody call Guy Fieri! Quick!  I love that this place gladly indulges my culinary travesties (e.g.: Chicken Fried Rice with Eggs Over Easy on top) and, in some ways, serves as validation that I was in the right direction all along.  Maybe my ideas for Bulgogi or "Bahn Mi" Cheesesteaks aren't so "out there" after all.  

Anyway, interesting flavors and textures along with proper execution (and good soy sauce...Yamasa brand) makes Country Foodly just work!  To me...this collision of culture and technique, and a willingness to diverge from tradition for the sake of discovery, very much, embraces a certain perspective.  
To me, ultimately,...THIS is American food!

East End Eatery.  Country Foodly. The Jones.  et al.  Thanks to places like these Breakfast is the niche where Gainesville really shines.

The once almost great Sweet Dreams is far from what it used to be.  After visiting on multiple occasions since my last review it never quite got as good.  Last time the ice cream was all fluff. My "Mint Chocolate Chip" had so much overrun and unbalanced flavor that it has devolved into low-end, grocery store levels.  It deserves all the prestige of Blue Bell...seriously.  Blue Bell is the brand that immediately drew the point of reference.  Sigh.

"Going out for ice cream" will now entail a long haul (though certainly a more worthwhile one) to the Haagen-Dazs store;  where, despite gas prices and time of commute, my money and time are still better spent.  Sure I won't get the more "esoteric" flavors; but most of them never really hit their mark anyway (and a few were flat-out train wrecks).  

For me it's over.

This was our first "real meal" in Paris so while the recollection of their French names are a bit hazy, the tastes, textures and flavors are firmly imprinted in my mind!

Bread Service - Served with cornichons and pate
 I'm not certain where they procure their baguette from (I heard it MAY be Gosselin though not THE Gosselin on Boulevard Saint-Germain); but, while the texture was damn near perfect, the flavor though, seemed ever-so-slightly off; think traces of dirty water-- off-putting but edible.

 The pate was also a big disappointment (I was really looking forward to it)-- dried out (as though it were reheated a few too many times) and more than a little gamey. But the one saving grace to the bread service were the cornichons!  They were piquant and kept the palate dancing with sweet/savory/tangy combination.  Whew.

Butternut Squash Soup
 The second finest soup based on a gourd I've ever had (Robuchon's Pumpkin Soup still king). It was served with a poached organic egg and crispy Jamon Serrano.  It was gorgeous;  rich, creamy, complex but never heavy or over bearing.  Okay..now we're getting serious.

Sauteed Shrimp & Squid Ink Risotto
 Wow!  Every single component was immaculately cooked.  The shrimp was tender, the roasted garlic WANTED to overpower the dish but never did, and the risotto was textbook perfect (creamy, nutty, al dente but not undercooked).  The dish was so delicate, especially considering all the bold flavors involved (another appearence by the venerable crispy jamon serrano here too), but it all harmonized in euphony.

Pork Belly
 Merely a good dish.  Not spectacular.  The pork belly was not entirely tender and the skin was more chewy than crispy.  The flavors were nice but the execution of this dish was a bit amateur.

Braised Beef
 This dish was excellent.  The meat (don't recall which cut) fell apart when the fork was taken to it and the deep, rich sauce (OMG that sauce!!) paired perfectly.  Rounded out with caramelized pearl onions, crispy onions and root veggies it can best be described as Stick-To-Your-Ribs With Finesse.  Loved this dish.

Warm Grand Marnier Souffle
 There is something beautiful, almost Zen, about the proper execution of a classic.  Ladies and gentlemen this is the paragon of souffles.  The grand marnier flavor was, thankfully, not too assertive and the texture was..well..it was like eating a warm cloud.

Rice Pudding
 I was raised in Miami.  I have had better rice pudding.  In fact, when I tasted just the rice pudding, I wondered what all the noise was about.  "Really?" I thought to myself.  "THIS is what they're raving about?"  When I poured the caramel sauce over the rice..it all made sense.  The caramel sauce makes this dish!  The rice pudding itself is good.  The rice is a little al dente (not over cooked), but still very creamy.  When the caramel is poured over it, though, I can see why the commotion.

Next time I'm in Paris I will most certainly stop in again.  I implore you to do the same.

As we walked up the few steps to the restaurant proper, a young, well-dressed, mademoiselle smiled and politely inquired as to why we were there: "May I help you?" She asked with a voice that was part greeter and part gatekeeper.  "We have reservations." I replied feeling a combination of entitled-to-enter and under-dressed.  "Of course" She added and immediately stood out of our way and summoned our team of servers in one fell swoop; announcing to them a single word: my last name.  She took our coats and gestured toward our squad of waiters. We were led to our excellent table where, between our seats, was a cloth-lined foot stool/pedestal on which the misses was to place her belongings.

Bread Service
Presented with 3 varieties:
  Hearty cereal roll
  Baguette-like roll
  Brioche type roll.  

I loved that they offered 3 different, but basic, varieties of bread dough; all executed masterfully.  I don't know who the resident baker is but.... bravo!  The basket was served with 2 types of butter: a plain butter made by a master butter maker in a town that I don't remember the name of and one (different butter) augmented by Sel Gris.  I preferred the plain.

First Amuse Bouche
Trio of Clam Tempura, Chèvre & Honey, Eggs Mayonnaise

 The Clam Tempura was perfect.  Crispy & light with mildly tangy sauce
 Chèvre & Honey was wrapped in a beet green (I think) & the combination was eye-opening.  I am going to steal this idea!
 Eggs Mayonnaise was a mini-deviled egg sandwich on crispy, homemade crackers.  Nice balance between light & flavorful.  My bouche was certainly amused.

Second Amuse Bouche
Smoked Salmon & Mashed Potato Canape
 House cured Smoked Salmon with mashed potatoes (rivaled only by Joel Robuchon) on a crouton.  It was fantastic. The anticipation was killing me.

Appetizers
Sauteed Baby Octopus
 Two pieces of the octopus were barely on the tough side but it was almost negligible. I really enjoyed the play on the "sandwich" of raw & sauteed mushrooms and the roasted garlic creme on which everything lay, was beautiful on its own, but when mixed with the olive & squid ink gelée this dish became heavenly.

Pressed Foie Gras w/ Preserved Quince
  This dish is proof that sometimes the whole is not merely greater than the sum of its parts-- but an entirely different animal all together.  On their own, each component was "nice but uninspired."  But when the foie was spread out on the toast and sprinkled with the assortment of fruits (pomegranate seeds, perfectly brunoised & macerated fruits, & peeled grapes in a *very subtle* anisette gelée)...Holy F***!  The sheer implausibility that it could taste as good as it did blew my mind!  A funny aside: my wife asked for more toast to go with the dish; the waiter said: "2 minutes is that okay?"  "Of course" she responded.  I spied her setting the stop watch on her phone; "just curious" she said.  "What do you think?" She asked.  "In a kitchen like this?  Everything is timed though his "2 minute" response seemed off-the-cuff." I replied. But sure enough...2 minutes later the waiter was en route to our table with the bread.  

Pan Seared Pike Perch
   The skin was crispy and the fish flaked beautifully.  The stewed onions & crispy pancetta added textural & sweet/salty complexity while the braised bok choy was tender.  The sauce...OMG..that sauce!  It was surprisingly rich, sort of like a demi-glace based, a bit heavy but absolutely luscious!

Pheasant w/ Gâteau de Pommes de Terre
 The game was slightly chewy, as feathered game tends, but immaculately executed.  The sauce was a poultry based sauce, with just enough depth, that was luxurious when swirled around the mouth.  The best part of this dish were the potatoes.  Best described as a "cannoli of angel hair hash browns!"  These were INSANELY GOOD! Best hash browns ever!

Palate Cleanser
 Raspberry-mint bon-bons.  Little half-bites of raspberry & mint sorbet wrapped in a candy wrapper and presented on dry ice.  They were the set-up for our 2 desserts.

Pre-Dessert
 Fig Macaron, Chestnut Genoise & Raspberry Sable.  If this was pre-desert I couldn't wait for the main event.  I could have (and wanted to) eat 20 of these plates.  Each mini piece could have been an end it itself; for each was a respective specimen of  "as it should be."

Ile Flotante
 This version of the classic Ile Flotante was superior to every other incarnation I've had (not that I've had many..ok 1 other).  First it was a sphere of soft meringue set atop moist gâteau which "floated" on a mango-passion coulis and topped with bands of pulled sugar.  The server poured more of the velvety sauce into the meringue sphere so that it oozed all over when you cut into it with the fork.  On first bite my wife moaned.

Choco-coffee
 Cool, dense & satiny chocolate-coffee ice cream atop a chocolate wafer cylinder filled w/ warm chocolate sauce!  Out of this world.

Mignardise + Coffee

Overall: Dining at the height of civilization!

They scheduled my reservation for a day they were closed; even after I "made sure" they were open on Sundays (asked about 3 times on the phone because it struck me as odd even then)!!

EPIC FAIL.

Yes his caramels are absolutely legendary (especially the Mango-Passion Fruit caramels).

Yes his chocolates are in a class all their own (served as mignardise in addition to whatever you order).

Yes his Chocolat Chaud (Hot Chocolate) is other wordly

BUT......Two things may offer some affirmation that heaven is actually here on Earth:
1- His Mille-Fuille (a.k.a. Napoleon) with Caramel Pastry Cream
2- His Choux Vanille

The Choux Vanille had a thin glaze of caramel that cracked like a properly executed Creme Brulee and upon cutting it in half, revealed a vanilla bean pastry cream that was light years beyond anything I'd ever had.  The vanilla flavor fell just short of assertive and a whisper of "egginess" hinted in the background.  The balance of flavors was complete artistry.

The Caramel Pastry Cream in his Mille-Fuille was yet another example of adept simplicity and the layer of dough were crispy lightness that dissolved on the tongue.

This was like a master class of the highest edible art.  Bravo and merci monsieur Genin; c'est magnifique!

The finest Salted Caramel ice cream that I had ever experienced tasted like someone sprinkled iodized table salt on a pint of Haagen Dazs Dulce de Leche ice cream.  Until now.

If you're thinking of anything remotely close to that description:
1- I'm sorry
2- Disregard that notion completely; this is an entirely different animal

Ice cream in the United States is doomed to mediocrity thanks to entrenched bureaucratic interests demonizing (and often exaggerating any ill effects of) raw milk.  I can write volumes about this alone; but for now suffice to say that, unfortunately, one is forced to leave the country (the U.S.) in order to experience the highest level of ice cream possible.  Shame on us!

I don't know exactly which salt Berthillion uses for its Salted Butter Caramel (Fleur de Sel? Fleur de Mar?) but it has absolutely no chlorinated notes.  The signature flavor of the caramel (the "burnt"-like quality) was fully developed without being bitter; and the texture of the ice cream was the finest to ever hit my palate.  

Also-- I don't know exactly how or why but the French have the flavor of Vanilla absolutely nailed (evidenced in Laduree's macarons and other instances)! In the case of ice cream; I suspect the "lactosy" quality of the raw milk interacting with the vanilla flavor may accentuate it.

In short...this is my favorite ice cream on the planet (a distinction formerly held by Buenos Aires' Persicco)!

Restaurant BBQ Disclaimer:
I am of the opinion that restaurant barbeque (as opposed to competition barbeque) is *always* variable.  It has been my experience that a 5-star place one day is a 1-star another day regardless of reputation.  I have been to Kay Bros once and it is that experience on which I rate.  As with most establishments, but barbeque especially, YMMV; take with a grain of salt.

Pork Sandwich + Pepper Jack Cheese - The pork was fantastic!  The perfume level from the smoke was at exceptional intensity (not too assertive, not too wimpy) and the meat was served with just enough "bark" to supply textural contrast.  The garlic toast was perfect (crunchy exterior with some chewy, "toothiness" to the crumb).

Fries- They use the "crinkly-cut" fries and they were fried beautifully;  crispy but not burnt;  moist in the center and a definite taste of potato.  In short: these fries were excellent.

Onion Rings-  Of the breaded, not battered, variety;  also cooked perfectly!

Dessert- They have none.

With sensitivity to the opening paragraph I can wholeheartedly recommend this place.  I can't speak to when they are having an off day; but when these guys are on-- no one in town can touch them.

Macaroni and Cheese Bites -
Not my first choice for an appetizer but I was a little more than curious.
These are battered, thin triangles of mac-n-cheese that are deep fried til golden.  I don't think I'll ever order them again; not that they were bad.  Suffice to say that the curiosity has been quelled.

Long Branch Chicken Sandwich -
It's a grilled chicken breast served on a Kaiser roll with bacon, onion rings, cheddar and sliced raw onions.  I liken this sandwich to something one may find in a bar or a Fridays or something of the type.  It was "A-OK" as it were; definitely not offensive and the choice of bread was a good decision.

Works Philly-
While the sandwich was not extraordinary, it wasn't too shabby either; it is what I will be coming back for.  I was pleasantly surprised to find roasted red peppers (not green) and the bread is a great choice for a cheesesteak.  Overall this is the best Philly Cheesesteak I've ever had in town; even counting ones I've had in sit-down, silverware restaurants which I won't mention or review.

I will be back!

Sandy's is the type of place that, once you find, you keep going back to.  There are staple Greek items on the menu (Gyros, Souvlaki, etc..) as well as sandwiches and some "Dinner" items (Pork chops, Meatloaf, etc..).  

My go to item is the Pork Souvlaki since they are the only game in town as far as that goes.  Sometimes it's great (juicy, perfectly charred) but sometimes...not so much (dry, tough, burnt).  Thankfully the latter is the exception not the rule.  I don't know if the tzatziki is homemade or brought in but I like that it's a bit understated (doesn't slam you in the face with garlic).  

Overall this place is good.  It's the kind of establishment that's all too easy to take for granted and that every city really should have.