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257 W 116th St
New York, NY 10026
(212) 222-4866

The Winery  

Category: Beer, Wine & Spirits
Neighborhood: Harlem

5.0 star rating
8/20/2011
The Winery succeeds because it does not endeavor to be more than what it is--one retailer's idea of what a wine store should be at this place and time.  The wines and spirits in stock reveal the personality of the proprietor, much like the qualities of the wine in a region reveal that region.

What you will find here are wines that the proprietor finds interesting.  That interest arises out of an ever-shifting combination of the product, the market, and the cost.  Any one, two or all three of those qualities may be particularly interesting to him in any particular case, but you can always count on it to be interesting.  

Wine is endlessly complex, there are treasures to reveal in every level of the market, and The Winery exceeds at the $20 level.  Visits to the shop are one way I keep a finger on a pulse.  I learn something every time I go in there, they have introduced me to a lot of great wine.

The Sake selection is excellent.

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2167 Frederick Douglass Blvd
New York, NY 10026
(646) 455-0952

Levain Bakery  

Category: Bakeries
Neighborhood: Harlem

4.0 star rating
8/20/2011
Only one thing pisses me off more than a $4 cookie--a $4 cookie that is worth it.  They have them here, and truth be told, one of them is a proper dessert serving for 2-3 people.

Why a place refers to itself as a bakery without producing bread is a mystery, but the coffee is good, the cookies are un-rivaled.

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301 W 116th St
New York, NY 10026
(212) 866-4500

Harlem Tavern  

Categories: Pubs, American (New)
Neighborhood: Harlem

2.0 star rating
Update - 7/25/2011
You know, what it comes down to is they were late to the party on Upper FDB.  A year ago I would have forgiven the sins I am about to chronicle, but standards are standards, and in this neck of the woods they have recently been raised.  Now, Harlem Tavern does not clear the bar.

If you sit or stand inside with your back to the street you can not tell that you are not in a shopping mall or an airport.  Are we in Applebee's or TGIFriday's?  Go to the bathroom and there are people handing you paper towels expecting a tip. WTF?  

I order a beer at the bar and I get accosted for cash payment or a credit card before I get a drink.  That has not happened to me since I was in college and hanging out at college bars (where, admittedly, a-holes run on tabs all the time).  I'm 51, people, my self-respect is worth more than $7, rest assured.

It is a little sad to me, as a former food service worker, because the food is pretty good for bar food.  The kitchen staff is carrying their load.  I would just like to enjoy their work without the ear-splitting bad pop music, without being treated like I'm going to run on a tab, and with a little, dare I say it as a white guy from Texas? Soul.

This place has as much soul as Chili's, and it is at 116th and Frederick Douglass Boulevard!  They did a lovely job on the building, though the kitchen looks laughably small for the volume they seem to plan to push out.  They're trying, but the place reeks of condescension for the neighborhood, not respect.

A couple of years ago, I would have welcomed this place with open arms and been unfailingly uncritical.  I have lived around the corner since there was not even a dry cleaner in the neighborhood (10 years). We have needed a Tavern, and badly, for a long, long time.

But, now we have Bier International, Lido, Bad Horse, et al., we don't need for some mega-restauranteur to throw us a bone.  So, I'm throwing it back, for now.  I will keep my eye out.  This is an awesome location.  It could be great.  The owners should go check out a place like Spyten Divil in Bburg.  They could have a gem, instead they're pimping rhinestones.

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2 Previous Reviews: Hide »

  • 4.0 star rating
    7/11/2011

    Sometimes new restaurant-itis can be hilarious, and deadly!

    Stopped-in tonight and made a ridiculous demand: please me, a man who worked at one of the frozen Margarita meccas in Austin, Texas, The Texas Chili Parlor, for ten years, with your frozen Lime/Tequila/Citrus concoction that you deign to name after the Holy Mother!

    It's too much to ask.  I couldn't look....

    The result?  Surprisingly lacking in suck.  I can drink these!  Oh, My. God.  This place might have a chance after all.

    I also tried the cheeseburger sliders and was shocked that they were not over-cooked leather coins haphazardly slapped between stale styro-loaf buns, as they almost always are.  Oh my, this *is* quite the surprise.  They were actually properly cooked and prepared with care.  The buns were fresh, which is no small feat for these little things, they go stale very quickly.  

    I enjoyed the sliders, which was oddly disorienting. They had a function other than slowing the rapid absorption of alcohol inside my stomach.  Other bars are going to have to re-think the slider!

    The deadly part I alluded to above involved the table umbrellas.  A gust of wind come up and sent a table umbrella flying across the patio, scattering glassware in it's murderous wake.  The management had thoughtfully spray-painted the cinder-blocks the umbrellas were standing in Manhattan-black, to match everyone's bags and shoes, but had neglected to consider the aerodynamic idiosyncrasies of the southwest corner of 116th and FDB in Manhattan.  The wind, it can gust here, the umbrellas need anchoring as well as fashion accessorizing,

    But, to their growing credit, they quickly closed the remaining umbrellas and whisked them away somewhere they could not kill again.  I was just greatly relieved my drink went unspilled, and the management quickly came over, apologized and comp'd the table which suffered the majority of the distress from the incident.  Another sure sign that they know what they're doing.  Hmmm.  They are really racking up points here.

    One bit of criticism.  I was the dreaded singlet who wanted a table when I came in (if I had any friends I wouldn't have time to write reviews on yelp, would I?).  When I arrived, there were a dozen suitable tables, 8 of which had umbrellas.  I was seated at a table sans killer umbrella. presumably to "save" the shaded tables for customers arriving later.

    This is new restaurant-itis.  Early customers are not less valuable than later ones,  The later ones just bitch more.  I should have at least had the opportunity to choose to live in danger, near a lethal umbrella-shaped projectile, and I was not.  Oh well, the sun was behind clouds,  so no matter.  They'll learn, they will get their fifth yelp-star from me some day.

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  • 4.0 star rating
    7/3/2011

    Since I live a couple of blocks away, and have for ten years (before there was so much as a dry cleaner in this neighborhood), I decided to violate one of my cardinal rules and visit a newly opened restaurant.  I went in on Saturday, the second day they were open, just because I was curious.

    I am an old hand in the restaurant business, I've worked on three openings myself, and I know what a nightmare it can be even for the most skillful and diligent.  Considering how the odds are stacked against them, my experience was cause for hope.

    I went in alone and sat outside.  I waited about 10 minutes for attention, I was just about to walk when my server put a glass of water in front of me.  Good move.  I had already read the brunch menu, memorized it, decided what I would change about it, so I was ready to order.

    The waitron, clearly experienced, took my order cheerfully and returned immediately with my drink.  I don't know if she knew that I had been waiting, but she made it not matter that I had been as quickly as she could.

    When I sat down, the July sun was behind clouds and I was out on the open.  The sun came out and it got uncomfortable to sit there in a few minutes.  When a two-top (table that seats two) came open with shade, I asked if I could move and was quickly accommodated.  They may have new restaurant-itis, but they're doing what they can.

    I had the pulled pork sandwich.  Clearly, the executive chef is not from North Carolina, and clearly they don't have a meat smoker, but it wasn't bad.  There wasn't enough cole slaw, but the brioche bun was excellent, sort of out of place wrapped around sort of pedestrian pulled-pork, but pulled pork is not exactly haute cuisine, I'll admit.  It just seemed a little odd that they went to so much trouble to get a great bun and stuffed it with only passable pulled-pork.

    The fries were not brown enough (yet they were fully-cooked), probably owing to using new oil, I can forgive that.  They'll figure that out.  The iced tea was freshly and correctly brewed, something of a rarity in NYC.  I had some driving to do immediately afterward, so I didn't drink, but the beer menu was thoughtful, but not overwhelmingly creative or esoteric.  Carlos has more interesting beer around the corner at Karrot (organic grocery on 117th).

    For my male readers, there were some really cute waitresses.  The clientele was largely local, people I see in the hood, and it's good to see everyone out and gathering somewhere besides the ridiculous check-out lines at Best Yet (full grocery at FDB and 118th).  They had a four-piece jazz band which was pleasant and entertaining.

    The check came when I needed it to, and she snapped back out with change, even though I didn't need any.  People may be having service problems here, but I didn't.

    All in all, for a new place opening on a holiday weekend, I'd say they're doing much better than I would expect.  What we need to see is if this because they know what they're doing or if they got lucky when I was there.  I wouldn't be scared off by the negative reviewers here, their expectations are whack.

    Even though there's better food to be had a few steps in either direction on FDB, I'll be back.  It has some promise, let's see if they can realize it.

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2099 Frederick Douglass Blvd
New York, NY 10026
(212) 280-0944

Bier International  

Categories: German, Bars
Neighborhood: Harlem

3.0 star rating
7/14/2011 1 Check-in Here
It is sort of hard to take a place seriously that doesn't accept credit cards.  Yes, I understand that the credit cards companies take a bite, and yes, it's too much, and yes this is not so much required in Europe and you're trying to be faithful to a concept, blah blah blah.  Get over it.  Get a merchant account.  This is New York City, we don't carry cash.

Also, service is a problem, and I don't understand the problem.  You can hire good servers in this town, go to any theatre audition, they're the people standing in line.  Why must you persist with this crew that seems to care more about their summer sultry fashion statements (which I love, don't get me wrong) than getting me another beer?

Really?  You're this close, folks.  If you wanted to open an authentic european beer garden you've done it, congratulations.  Now, throw us a bone here, we're New Yorkers.

One more thing, have you noticed how loud it is inside?  Sometimes I can't hear the person screaming next to me.  There are simple acoustical solutions for this.  Execute one, please.

Ok, that's all the bashing.  The beer selection is excellent, a rare choice of outstanding brews.  Beer snobs are impressed.  Even my German friends have said "you can get that in the US?"  The food is a fabulous value, well-prepared and well-paired.  There's some talent behind the concept here, clearly.  They get it.  I'm a fan, I go back, they don't need to change anything to get my repeat business, but I'd really like to be more comfortable...I'm just sayin'.

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2168 Frederick Douglass Blvd
Manhattan, NY 10026
(646) 490-8575

Lido  

Category: Italian
Neighborhood: Harlem

4.0 star rating
Update - 7/14/2011
So, I went into Lido for lunch, they have a Prix Fixe for $14 and even though the Chef stubbornly eschews the burger and fries aesthetic I thought i'd give it a try once I saw that the women's world cup semi was on the tee-vee.

Well, now I know why people like Panini's, those press-grilled sandwiches that replaced the wrap as the lunch-food of the cognoscenti.  I had the prosciutto and broccoli rabe version here, and it was effing good.  The bread was actually toasted (my Northern Italian friends call these things "toast"), the blend of flavors was interesting and made sense.  This really succeeds as a dish.

A bit of personal disclosure is in order here.  I go to Lido a lot, it is sort of my hang-out bar.  i have a shameless crushes on Zanny, an owner (or something), and Cimma, a fixture behind the bar and at the front.  I get preferential treatment here (I've earned it) and being here is almost as comfortable for me as my living room at home.

While I eat here a lot, I haven't been coming in for the food, though it is good.  A few dishes I've had here early-on were misses, but you can really sense that the chef here is determined to follow a vision and not simply put huge portions of combinations of fat, sugar and salt on the menu to stimulate reward centers in his patron's brains, as so many places do.  I admire that.

Even though the friendly service would keep me coming in if they were microwaving Hot Pockets in the back, the food is really evolving, really getting much better, following a true vision and aesthetic.  While it's great to have a nice place in the neighborhood, Lido is quietly making a culinary statement as a restaurant.

The restaurant business being what it is, you never know if a successful initial trajectory is going to end up in orbit, but Lido may end up being one of the places people will brag about having been a patron of back "before anyone knew about it."  This much attention to a prix fixe lunch indicates that someone here does food because they love cooking, not so much as a way to earn a buck.

One last thing I want to mention is Lido is distinguishing itself along SoHa's new restaurant row as a classic Manhattan restaurant.  no reaching for hip irony here, no catering to the Columbia student crowd, no burger, no deep fryer.  Their commitment to to what they are trying to do is genuine, and they are sticking to their guns.  That's worthy of admiration, and they have mine.

So, visit.  It's a good restaurant that may be on it's way to being Destination Dining.  There may come a day when it's more than just a "welcome addition to this neighborhood."

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1 Previous Review: Hide »

  • 4.0 star rating
    3/9/2011

    Lido just got it's liquor license, so things are looking up.  This is definitely an upgrade to Frizzante (the restaurant formerly in this location), but that wasn't a very high bar to clear.  I am encouraged by several things that happened on my first visit;  the owner came and talked to me, they comp'd most of my meal when things got messed up due to new-restaurant jitters, the manager made a genuine effort to make things right, and they were honest with me about what was going on, i.e, they weren't so insecure that they had to pretend that this was anything other than just new restaurant-itis.

    The food was really good--inventive, original, well-prepared and beautifully presented.  I had the marinated beet salad and a mushroom polenta.  It was beyond just good, it was really good.  The restaurant that was here before just didn't seem to really try very hard, I'd had better Italian food in pizza joints, but that's no longer the case.  This is a restaurant that will make people take the B or the C to 116th.  

    The decor is pleasant and elegant, the wait-staff efficient and friendly.  It was a little loud, but that's because it was busy.  There are a lot of people like me in this neighborhood who are really interested in not having to go downtown to get a decent meal.  I'm really happy I can now stop in for a really nice meal, or a good drink at a nice bar, after getting off the train on the way home.

    This little stretch of Fred Doug is becoming quite the restaurant row...  Lido is a great addition, check it out.

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2224 Frederick Douglass Blvd.
New York, NY 10026
(212) 749-1258

Bad Horse Pizza  

Categories: Pizza, Italian
Neighborhood: Harlem

5.0 star rating
7/13/2011
Ok, saddle up NYC Pizzalero's, there's now a new way to argue about which NYC Pizza joint is best.

Does it deserve five stars?  It did tonight, perhaps the stars were in alignment, perhaps it was the beer I had before I came in.  Perhaps it was The White Album on the stereo, I don't know.  It's yelp, my reviews are worth every penny you pay for them.

So, this is good pizza, and yes, you pony up one thousand nine-hundred pennies for the 10-inch pizza I had on my first visit.  Yes, that is on the upper fringes of the range for both this neighborhood and this genre of cuisine.  Fine, maybe this place won't get over-run immediately and I can get a table when I want one.  I can part with a $20 for a meal when it is this good.

This is an artisanal experience.  The people behind this place aren't looking to shut down the Chucky Cheese up the block.  There's been buzz about this place being a little hard to order from on the phone, about delivery being spotty, and after sitting at the bar and watching the staff, I can see why.

They are focused on the human beings in the restaurant.  They'll let the phone ring if they are in the middle of a discussion with a customer.  They'll put it down for a sec after they answer it to freshen a drink.  These people are crafting a dining experience here.  Their attention, such as it is, is here.

I had the Bad Horse Speciality Pizza, which is topped with  skirt steak, onions and jalapenos.  The gentleman taking my order warned me about the heat, the jalapenos, and I waved him off with "I'm from Texas."

He ended that discussion with "say no more."

For a Texan, the pie had a mere suggestion of jalapeno, a jalapeno nuance, shall we say (for the NYC palate, yeah, it's hot, but not Thai hot).  The skirt steak was tender and well-seasoned.  The sauce had the distinctive note of fresh basil that is the hallmark of a well-crafted pizza sauce, and the crust was cracker-thin, yet yeasty, a true artisan's pie.

They care.  It brings a tear to my eye.  They care.

The decor is Modern Park Slope, exposed brick, it looks like the southern interior wall was once an exterior wall.  Very nicely done.  The lighting is so dim you'll be taking your date home afterwards, candles are needed to sign the credit card receipts.

The wine list is bold and quite interesting, particularly at $8 a glass.  The beer list is comprehensive, you'll find something for every beer-drinker's taste here (all cans and bottles).

They were doing a brisk take-out business.  The buzz has been that the thing to do is call up and pick up,  Obviously that word has gotten around.

I like this place.  I like Grimaldi's, too.  I think I'd go here instead of standing in line at Grimaldi's.  Shoot me, like a bad horse.

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53 W 106th St
New York, NY 10025
(212) 865-4888

Ichie Japanese Restaurant  

Category: Japanese
Neighborhood: Manhattan Valley

5.0 star rating
7/8/2011
Mom and Pop (literally) Japanese that excels in every single category--food, service, price, decor, and ambiance.  I wish I knew enough about Japan to vouch for its authenticity, (someday I will, but this place is everything I hope these kinds of little places will be in Japan).

Leaving all my fantasies about being an expert on things Japanese aside, as a New Yorker who likes eating out, Ichie satisfies my desire to give my money to people who care about what they are doing, and who care about my experience as their customer.  The food is fresh, the service is friendly, they seem genuinely grateful to have my business, and I always leave feeling like I should have paid more than I did.

I eat a lot of sushi and sashimi, several times a week, and this is consistently one of the best places I go.  The miso soup is my favorite in the City.  The portions are reasonable, the presentation is simple and direct, and I'm always telling myself I really should eat here more often as I leave.

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5 W 31st St
New York, NY 10016
(212) 684-2199

Minar Indian Restaurant  

Category: Indian
Neighborhoods: Midtown West, Koreatown

4.0 star rating
3/16/2011
So, you want the desi slant on the Seinfeld Soup Nazi?  There's really nothing to recommend Minar except the food, but the food is so outstanding that it doesn't matter that the counter-staff is surly, the menu is indecipherable, you have to wait for naan, the decor has all the charm of a Greyhound station, and they serve on flimsy styro-foam plates paired with the cheapest white plastic flat-ware all served on garishly orange plastic cafeteria trays that I'm sure are below public-school standards.

Thirsty?  There's an assortment of flavors of high fructose corn syrup in the cooler behind you!

However, look around when you're in there, it's all desi.  The clientele, the pictures on the wall, the ganesh statue, the give-away tabloids, and most importantly--the talent back in the kitchen  This is as no-nonsense as east-Asian can get.  Minar caters to people who don't care about anything but quickly getting good Indian food for a good price.  

That's exactly what Minar delivers.

This is not a date place, not a place to take a business client unless you're trying to impress them with your thrift, not a place to enjoy a quiet refuge from the hustle of mid-town.  But, if you want truly delicious Indian food and don't want to pay much for it, and you don't care that the staff acts like you've just ruined their day because you want to give them some money, then you've found your mid-town Indian gem.  

They insult my Southern-US sensibilities every time I go in there, and I keep going back.

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142 W 10th St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 255-2330

Low Country  

Category: Southern
Neighborhood: West Village

5.0 star rating
2/22/2011
I spent 6 of my 11 years in the food service business (I was a line cook, a baker, a prep cook and a kitchen manager) at a Southern Food Icon in Austin, Texas.  I know southern food.  I am a native Texan.

Lowcountry is better.

First of all, I would probably be a fan of this place because of a drink I encountered here--sweet tea vodka and lemonade--because it is called a John Daly.  That still makes me chuckle, and I enjoy one on every visit.  (for any who may not get it, equal parts iced tea and lemonade is classically known as an Arnold Palmer, this was his signature refreshment as a pro golfer).

But, fantastically-named tasty drinks aside, this place is really, really good.  I've only been here for brunch, but I used to run brunch at a Southern restaurant, and I know the challenges.  Not only does Lowcountry meet those challenges, it sets a new standard for what this kind of food at this time of day can be.

The choices are interesting and original without being pretentious and weird.  Their take on eggs benedict is actually an improvement on the dish, the Kentucky Brown is a heart attack on a plate, granted, chicken breast with bacon and cheese served open-face on french toast, but the portion isn't gargantuan and the combination just works.  The huevos rancheros are expertly prepared, not an easy compliment to get from an Austinite, where this dish is regarded with reverence usually reserved for Holy Relics.

It's busy, and the beautiful people are pretty deep on Sundays, but the wait is worth it.  Obviously the word is out, Lowcountry is not on the down-low.

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856 10th Ave
New York, NY 10019
(212) 957-8818

Thailand Restaurant  

Category: Thai
Neighborhoods: Hell's Kitchen, Midtown West

4.0 star rating
2/22/2011
Over the last year, I realize I may have eaten here as frequently as I eat in any restaurant in New York City because it is near the workplace of a dear friend whom I can only see for lunch (owing to our busy schedules, lives and geographic distance from each other--except during the work day).  I have eaten many of the dishes on the lunch menu over the last year, and even though we have lunch together almost weekly we rarely even consider going anyplace else.

That's a pretty ringing endorsement.  We're both food enthusiasts, it's not like we don't care about what we're eating...

The lunch menu is simple and straightforward, but the food is always fresh, elegantly prepared and presented, and it never disappoints.  Since my primary interest here is chatting with my good friend, it took me a while to notice that right under my nose here is a really good casual lunch place.  

I recommend the Tom Yum Shrimp soup, the Fresh Basil lunch special, the Pad Ka Na and the fried rice dishes.  If I can offer any criticism, it is that I'd like to have more vegetables in the dishes, but that's all I can come with after really trying to come up with something I don't like about this place.  The waitstaff is efficient and helpful, you can get in and out quickly if that's your agenda.

This is not a neighborhood where people come to eat, so that's probably why this place is relatively undiscovered and not a mob scene.  A good Thai lunch for $10, including tip, with table service, is a good deal.  If you're in this part of town for lunch, check it out.  We'll be in the back.

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"Real Food, Real often.  Industrial food industriously eschewed."

Review votes:
99 Useful, 34 Funny, and 46 Cool

Location

New York, NY

Yelping Since

April 2009

Things I Love

Texas-style BBQ, soba, smoked salmon, Mexican food

Find Me In

Harlem and the Financial District

My Hometown

Dallas, TX

My Blog Or Website

http://rdewald.com

When I'm Not Yelping...

I work in hospice care

Why You Should Read My Reviews

I'm not sure you should.

My Second Favorite Website

http://fmylife.com

The Last Great Book I Read

Real Food by Nina Planck

My First Concert

Jethro Tull

My Favorite Movie

Young Frankenstein

My Last Meal On Earth

Sushi

Don't Tell Anyone Else But...

I don't tell secrets

Most Recent Discovery

pickled plums

Current Crush

I'll never tell