Category:
American (New)
Neighborhoods: Civic Center, TriBeCa
Category:
Sushi Bars
Neighborhood: Greenwich Village
Category:
Japanese
Neighborhood: Lower East Side
Categories:
American (New),
Modern European
Neighborhood: NoHo
Categories:
Seafood,
American (Traditional)
Neighborhood: South Village
Categories:
American (New),
Chinese
Neighborhood: Lower East Side
Category:
Chinese
Neighborhood: Chinatown
Category:
Sandwiches
Neighborhood: Financial District
Category:
Italian
Neighborhoods: Hell's Kitchen, Midtown West
Category:
American (New)
Neighborhood: Lower East Side
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Review votes:
3234 Useful, 1949 Funny, and 2262 Cool
New York, NY
Yelping SinceFebruary 2008
Things I Lovefoodgasms, volunteering, eating, durian, bacon, Peking Duck, seared foie gras, kobe beef, pork belly, curry, mortadella, dessert, ice cream, sashimi, sushi, chocolate, my family, (not necessarily in that order)
Find Me InNY Times Nov5, 2008: http://i34.tinypic.com...
My Hometowni8 Supper Club: http://www.i8and8.com
My Blog Or Website When I'm Not Yelping...i'm makin' it rain
Why You Should Read My Reviews"When Jeff says "Best" you go...don't think, just go :-)"
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The Last Great Book I ReadLife is all about ass....you're either covering it, laughing it off,
My First Concertkicking it, kissing it, busting it, trying to get a piece of it
My Favorite Movieor behaving like one.
My Last Meal On Earthblack truffles, pan seared foie, white truffle oil drizzle over kobe burger
Don't Tell Anyone Else But...i love food w/ red wine reductions
Most Recent Discoveryi'm a dork
Current Crushforever sake, sashimi
When you step inside, you instantly notice the welcoming bar seating layout, one that is conducive to interaction with the staff. The 'communal' U-shaped dining table is one huge concrete slab. The kitchen is open and vulnerable, with all the action within your view from any angle. You are asked if you want a drink or wine pairing with your meal. Refills are not mandatory but they seemed a bit pushy, eager to sell us on it. Then the meal begins...
We're really digging the multi-course format, a la Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare. Who really tastes anything surreal after the 3rd bite anyway right? The meal is $150 with an optional $90 wine pairing. Your meal commences with 6 canapes, followed by 14 courses and 2 breads. Sheer gluttony would be the apt phrase to describe a meal of such size, but who cares when you are there to treat yourself. Plus, you've earned it because.. (insert justification here).
As for the service, it is unpretentious and engaging. Friendly even. There is staff in front and in back of you at all times. The staff in front describe and dishes and honor requests. The staff in back clears your dishes, refills your water, and processes payment. The more junior BOH staff aka sous chefs are overlooked with a watchful eye by their seniors. We noticed that there seems to be a genuine interest for feedback, a good thing.
Not all the ingredients are told to you when served, but intentionally so to let you decipher and decode. Don't worry, you're handed a menu with brief descriptions at meal end. Heck, you are even given a 'mystery dish' to debunk. Pacewise, your courses are served to you as fast as you can eat it. We were done with our 15 courses in 2:15hrs, an impressive breakneck pace for preparing and plating food of this caliber.
We felt the 'forage-centric' theme was a bit exagerrated online. Yes, there are elements of wild edibles and the 'playfully deceptive' look of foraged ingredients as well as apparent Nordic influences, but nothing over the top like mealworms or the like. If anything, this meal is extremely 'texture-centric', one which Chef Lightner prides himself on when we pointed it out to him.
Our favorites? The Beet, Parsley Split, and Lamb Collar. Why? The sheer euphoric feeling we got when consuming these dishes. Our misses? The gummy texture of the overcaramelization of the proteins, as well as the first 6
'canape' dishes. They seemed predictable. Not in presentation or presentation,
but in flavor profile. The Nordic 'sweet and sour' contrast got mundane after
awhile, thus our taketh of one star from this review. Else, the mains got stronger as the meal progressed. Our comments will be self evident when you taste for yourself.
Definitely not a fly-by-night menu, it was well conceived. Ingredients that you
would never think syngergize do. Plating is meticulous and calculated. Flavors
on the mains live up to the hype of their presentation, something that is difficult to achieve. Staying the course, a Michelin Star is definitely not out of the question for this current low key establishment. Once the word gets out and Atera is decorated with positive accolades from press, the masses will flock. Hopefully by then, the quality will not suffer and the integrity of the food will keep. We are eager to return once the menu changes with the seasons.
(+)
layout is conducive to interaction
unique Combinations of ingredients
Tranformation of textures, masterful cooking technique
Multi course Format
Temperature control
Unpretentious Service
in and out in 2:15
(-)
too much sweet + sour on amuses
OVER caramelized proteins - gummy
gently pushy on drink refills
earl grey played second fiddle to the tartness in the 'rock' dish
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