Matt R.'s Profile

Just wonderful.

I was skeptical. A few of the reviews here played to my worst prejudices. My first visit to Pizzaiolo resulted in an encounter with the front-door host that was so atrocious that I didn't come back to actually try the place until two years had passed. Was it part of the company culture? Would Boot & Shoe be able to match the expected friendliness of Grand Lake?

Oh yes.  And the food is damn good, too.

I wandered in late on a Tuesday to avoid the crowds. No point in trying to walk into a popular place at 7:30pm on a Friday--that's just silly--especially when it's a neighborhood joint that you pass on the way home from work.  There was a crowd  by the door, but the host not only acknowledged me, but waded through the crowd to offer her services. Got on the list at 8:45, was told it would take 20 minutes, was handed a bar menu, and was guided to the back bar to wait.

The back bar is essentially the same as it was during the Di Bartolo regime. It's a high-ceilinged but cozy spot to spend time, well-staffed by a team of bartenders. I found a standing spot by the hallway, ordered a glass of wine (they took my reservation name to insure it passed onto my table bill--a nice touch), and as I stood around peeking through the doorway at the packed house, a very friendly and concerned young woman broke away from the servers station and approached me.

"Hi! Do you need a table?"

I'm on the list.

"Do you need anything?"

I have a glass of wine, thanks!

"Would you like a snack? Some olives? Some bread?"

Wow.  I soon had a tasty snack tray of cured mixed olives to go with my wine.  My dining buddy arrived, and was approached for a drink order within 60 seconds. We felt loved. Whoever that obnoxious Pizzaiolo host was, his type have clearly been banished to bitter hipster purgatory (perhaps tortured with Celine Dion Vegas concert albums). We were seated exactly 22 minutes after my arrival.

The food did not disappoint. The burrata was rich and creamy, carrying the gameyness of a mozzarella di bufala and topped with a glorious olio nuovo and a little crunchy salt. We considered asking for more crostini to carry the dairy goodness, but also considered the ambitiousness of our overall order before adding more carbs.  A puntarelle salad (think chicory & dandelion flavors) loaded with anchovy was a Roman powerhouse of taste, strong but not stinky. Then came the pizzas.  Wild nettle and ricotta salata had an amazing texture, with firm and slightly stringy greens offset by the smooth, dry ricotta crumble. Red onions added flavor without being a signature ingredient, or overly harsh (hey Cheeseboard!). The pancetta, green onion, and egg pie was even better. The flavor blend that makes the best breakfast was skillfully adapted to the pizza, with some skill apparent in the way the egg was cooked just right despite the pass through a Neapolitan-style oven (I'm guessing both pies had multi-stage baking).

But the crust... oh man, what a crust. It's the best crust I've experienced since Di Matteo in Naples, and better than what I had at Pizzaiolo a few months ago. Just awesome, with the exact taste, texture, and presentation. I want an oven just like theirs.

Service continued to be excellent all night. Very casual, but very professional. I like how these new upscale-gourmet places can pull off the "Dude, let me tell you about the wine" vibe. The server had wine pairing for each course ready to go, worked hard to make sure everyone got something they like (even replacing a glass that wasn't what was expected), and poured and returned the glasses himself in seconds, rather than farming out a bar order. The Aosta Gamay was something new, and was well recommended.

What a great spot in the 'hood. I'll brave the crowds on a regular basis, I think.

Addendum: seriously, if you are complaining that this place isn't as filling as Zachary's or Pizza Hut... don't be such a cheap-ass and order enough food for your table. A Italian pizza is a (large) entree, not something to feed a family.

A little bit of the Bay Area up in the frozen tundra. The influence of Alice Waters goes far and wide these days, even in a land of livestock and mineral rights. I see "in support of local and family farms" on a place and I have to take a look. When you travel, you need to learn about the location.

The menu was designed around the familiar farm-to-table philosophy we see here in organicland, and it worked, with a Canadian prairie twist.  An endive salad was solid, fresh, and light, unlike the fat-laden stuff served at the local hotels and catering establishments. The pears were great (local), and they left off the damn tree nuts. Spinach and mushroom risotto, made with Saskatchewan chanterelles, was a big, powerful flavor bomb, with a slightly over-the-top texture that pushed the limits of what the rice could carry, but it was worth it.  A rolled, stuffed local organic rabbit was exceptional, with a rich stuffing (was that offal?), perfect doneness, and a nice sauce. Really well-crafted food.  For dessert, a wine-poached pear paired with gorgonzola gelato closed the loop perfectly.

The wine selection was diverse and interesting, with a few BC whites worth checking out. An extra 1/2 star for carrying Dashe Late Harvest Zin, made down here in Oaktown by the Lake.