Probably Moving to Pittsburgh from Austin--What to expect?

3/19/2008 Alicia "The Hustler" K. says:

Your rent will probably be cheaper, b/c the cost of living here is far below the usual!

If you're going to CMU, you will probably be living in cool neighborhoods, but I recommend having a car.  The bus system isn't bad, but you have to live near  the right lines to make it work.  It makes things like grocery shopping and visiting people difficult, unless those are all within a mile of you.

Bars close at 2 on weekends.  I'm not too sure about other stuff (I was born and raised in Pgh, but live in NYC now)

Booze laws are crazy here too!  You can't buy any alcohol in a grocery store/supermarket.  Nothing.  There are liquor stores for wine and hard liquor, and beer distributors for beer.  Some/most of which are closed on Sundays.

In terms of politics, Pittsburgh is in the middle.  But at CMU,  and in the surrounding neighborhoods.  Our mayor is 28!  And the mayor is almost always democratic, but the democrats here are more pro-workers' rights, Unions and less liberal about things like abortion, gay rights, morality.  

I find Pittsburgh super-friendly, but maybe that's because I've lived in New York for 5 years?  It's not as friendly as the South, but people on the street will say hi to you, you can strike up conversations with shop owners, etc.  There is a real humbleness in the city, and maybe that's because Pittsburgh is kind of an underdog in terms of U.S. cities? There's no holier-than-thou attitude.  (IMO)

Hope that helps!  Feel free to message me!

3/20/2008 Jenney C. says:

1) Transportation
Public transportation is expensive, but CMU pays the Port Authority for their students to have bus passes(on your ID card). The bus system is okay, really crowded during peak times, a little confusing initially, and at times unreliable. However CMU also has a shuttle(for parts of Oakland and Shadyside) and a night time escort shuttle(for Oakland, Shadyside, and Squirrel Hill). Some people bike, but it's not as common partly bec. it's quite hilly. A car will be more convenient for evenings and weekends, but there are certain regional driving "rules" you should keep in mind like the "Pittsburgh Left".

Cars turning left will occassionally go ahead of oncoming traffic just when the light turns green. This "courtesy" will be extended to the first two cars. Some ppl take the Left, some ppl don't. It's something one just has to get used to. Occasionally the oncoming traffic will extend this courtesy by flashing their lights at you if you are signalling left.  

2) Rent
Rents are very low here, depending on what sort of place you want to live in. You can find one bedroom apartments for under 600, but they will either be quite small or squalid. If you live with a roommate, it can be quite cheap. However if you live in a house, be prepared to pay a lot for your gas in the winter. Most ppl at CMU live in Shadyside or Squirrel Hill. Oakland tends to be quite noisy(lots of rowdy undergrads). If you were paying $700 here and living w/ a roommate, you'd have a very nice place. You could buy a house and have lower mortgage payments in some cases. :-D Though property tax can be quite high.

3) Nightlife
Things are not open very late. Everything shuts down quite early. Yes  bars are open till 2am. There are a handful of 24 hr. places(greasy spoon diners, 7-11, one grocery store in Squirrel Hill). It's even difficult sometimes finding a restaurant open on Monday nights. Many small businesses in Squirrel Hill close early on Saturday for Sabbath.

4) Liquor Laws
Only 2 Ways to buy beer:
(1) Beer distributor - they sell by the case.
(2) Bar - will sell you a 6 pack at their bar prices.

There is only 1 way to buy wine and spirits
(1) State controlled liquor stores.

5) Politics
Short answer: no. They tend to be very conservative Democrats. It's a blue-collar union town. CMU is generally typical of most universities. It's a bit of a bubble in Pittsburgh. Despite many CMU graduates staying in Pittsburgh, there is a kinda town/gown thing going on if you step outside of Squirrel Hill/Shadyside.

6) Things you should know:
Pittsburghers love to say how friendly they are. However, maybe I don't fit into the demographic of who they want to be friendly toward. I have not found them friendlier than New Yorkers and sometimes I've found them more rude and racist. There is a parochial/provincial attitude here. It almost works to your advantage of they don't know you're a grad student at CMU.

3/20/2008 Jenney C. says:

Oh more on the Liquor Laws, beer distributors and the PA Wine & Spirits stores are open on Sundays.

3/22/2008 Robi "Now with four mothers!" P. says:

03/20/2008 Jenney C. says:

1) Transportation
... Some people bike, but it's not as common partly bec. it's quite hilly. A car will be more convenient for evenings and weekends, but there are certain regional driving "rules" you should keep in mind like the "Pittsburgh Left".

Cars turning left will occassionally go ahead of oncoming traffic just when the light turns green. This "courtesy" will be extended to the first two cars. Some ppl take the Left, some ppl don't. It's something one just has to get used to. Occasionally the oncoming traffic will extend this courtesy by flashing their lights at you if you are signalling left.  

Jenney, That is so damn funny.  I grew up and learned to drive in the' burgh, and sometimes have to fight the urge to take said "left".  I thought I was just being me (self centered, strong sense of entitlement...).  I had no idea it was a learned, or taught local ism.

Michael if you are a cyclist you know that hills only make for a better ride.  There is a pretty solid cycling community both fat and skinny tired as far as this ex-pat can tell.  The park system adjacent to campus offers some great sylvan frolicking.

I bet that you'll miss Austin (I can't believe it's in Texass), but there is some parity 'tween the two cities.

3/24/2008 Jenney C. says:

I actually know someone who has made the Pittsburgh Left part of their doctoral research.

It's quite fascinating and a little unnerving to get used to initially, but once you do it there's a sense of both liberation and communality. The School of Computer Science at CMU publishes a guide book they send to incoming students called "A Guide to Pittsburgh" and they explain the Pittsburgh Left. The thing about this rule is you have to get used to reading the other drivers. You can usually tell with nonverbal cues who's going to do it.

3/24/2008 Michael N. says:

Thanks so much for all your answers... I'm visiting next week, I'll be sure to keep all these points in mind =D

5/19/2008 Aaron C. says:

Michael, I work with and am good friends with a young guy that moved here from Austin for school. I could put you in touch if you want?

5/19/2008 Michael N. says:

I think that could be cool?  If it's not too creepy man.  And while I'm back  on here, are there any good apartment locating services y'all know about?

5/20/2008 My D. says:

Hey Michael,

There's nothing like apartment finder or apartment people here.  Believe me, I've looked.  If there is, it doesn't make itself easy enough to find.  What kind of area are you looking to move into?  I suggest either Southside or Shadyside.  You'll probably find the largest concentration of young professionals there.  I live in the southside works right now.  People here say it's a bit on the pricey side but I'm used to paying much more not being from around here.  It's really nice and there are lots of shops and restaurants within the vicinity.  Check out http://www.southsidewo....  Hope that helps!

BTW, why are you moving from Austin???? It's such a great city!! I used to go for SXSW when I worked for a concert production company in Chicago.

5/20/2008 Grant G. says:

Hey Michael,

I moved here from Austin for school about 5 years ago. I was born and raised in Austin (Lived in N. Austin for most my life, now my family lives in the Cedar Park area).

Craigs list is the best start for appartment hunting. I found all mine that way. Rent overall is probably going to be a little cheaper for you...Austin is getting super expensive. It all depends on where you live though. Shadyside is a more expensive area, and the south side (where a lot of younger people live, and it's pretty great) is getting pretty expensive.

Pittsburgh is quite different from Austin in culture. So much older. You probably won't be living in an appartment that is less than 60 years old (that's not bad though, can be great. Mine is over 100 years old). Also, night life is much harder to find than in Austin, and it doesn't thrive downtown at all (though they are slowly trying to work on that). You'll have to definitely meet people and read all the city papers to figure out what's going on around town...unlike Austin where you just...kind of...get bombarded with everything you could want to do.

I bike around town, and also have a car (I am now married and my wife does not ride...so, we have to drive a lot). If you are going to Carnegie Mellon, you probably don't need a car to get to the places you want to go as long as your okay riding a bus or biking (you'll have a "free" bus pass from the college). I'd say sell the car, make some cash...and make some friends with a car so you can get further distances when the need comes. Buses down near the universities are pretty regular, and you can pretty much get anywhere you need (even the airport - which is much cheaper than taking a cab).

My first experience in Pittsburgh 5 years ago was a little rough. I actually found the people a little cold. But, don't let it get you down, the people here, overall, are really great..even the locals. You'll be fine being in Oakland where CMU and Pitt are.

I'm not going to lie to you. In comparison to Austin, Pittsburgh has a lot of work to do. The night life isn't even comparible (like I said, they're working on it), but there are a lot of things going on if you look for it...so you won't be completely lost.

Driving here is a bitch...a total bitch. Nothing makes sense. You will have to throw out all your knowledge and common sense about normal city driving. There is no grid here, and if you can see it, you probably still can't get to it (another reason not to have a car).

Overall though, I have truly enjoyed my time here in the Burgh, and think you'll have no probably adjusting. It gets a lot colder, and the rain has a much harsher effect (no more rain in the morning, dry in the afternoon)....the weather can definitely be a downer. You'll be golden though, so...good luck.

6/12/2008 Jessica B. says:

Hey, so I am totally jumping in late, but jumping in nonetheless.

I lived in Pgh for a year and a bit before moving to Boston, and I miss it constantly. The eccentricities that some people find unappealing are part of what makes me love the city.

First and foremost though, rent. I had a whole three floor house WITH a little yard and ample parking for $675 (which I split with a roommate.) Look around, check out craigslist. Call Bill Barron (who was my super awesome landlord) and see if he has anything. DO NOT LIVE IN OAKLAND. (At the risk of offending people, I would never live in the South Side either.) I am pro- Lawrenceville because it's becoming the place where the art kids are, but it's still pretty working class and friendly.

Biking can be tough in PGH, but there is a strong bike community. Check out Free Ride http://www.freeridepgh.../ and Bike Pgh http://bike-pgh.org/ for more bike info.

If you do move, try to see other parts of the city outside of your neighborhood. The number one reason I have heard for people disliking living in Pgh is that they hate their neighborhood (usually one of the college neighborhoods ... so, yeah, I'm talking about Oakland.)

There is a community feel to the city if you try to meet people outside of the school. And since it's a friendly city, if you grab a friend or classmate and head out to a bar and strike up some conversations, you'll probably be comfortable in no time.

Good luck. I am jealous.

6/17/2008 Bill "your lips move, but I can't hear what you're sayin" M. says:

I too am late, but don't miss out on a authentic Pittsburgh experience, hit Primanti's one night in Oakland.  They're sandwiches are huge. They come with fries and cole slaw on them.  Driving in Pittsburgh is as bad as described above, so avoiding a car is a good idea as long as you can find someone to take you longer distances (like the airport).  Speaking of which, as a frequent business traveler, the airport is pretty good.  It can be expensive, but I think Southwest has made progress in bringing down prices.  Enjoy the different dialect that the locals have and be sure to try the local beers, including those from Penn Brewing Company (Penn Pilsner and Penn Dark).  If you can get a car, some of the little towns that run along the rivers north and west of the city are very interesting.  You can get a feel for the small, close-knit, industrial town that has been part of Western PA forever.

9/10/2008 Tracee M. says:

i'm way late - like 3 months late. BUT...

i lived in pittsburgh for three years (attended the art institute downtown). i have a love/hate relationship with that city. its dirty (like any city) and so are some of the inhabitants there (like any city).

places to kick it late: southside - hip, young, hippie, punk, eclectic side of town. full of bars, restaurants, shops, tattoo/piercing parlours that stay open late - especially in the summer; oakland - by the university of pittsburgh so there's tons of college kids looking for things to do - bars, house parties, etc.; shadyside/squirrel hill - a little more conservative but still, has awesome restaurants and shops.

avoid the northside at night. unless you're looking to by heroin.

what everyone said is true - beer distributors are the only places you're going to be able to get alcohol. but you will indeed get alcohol - pittsburgh is a drinking town with a football problem. so if you're around during STILLERS season, be prepared to be annoyed.

the public transit system can get expensive. buy a bus pass or learn the jitney system - people who drive you where you wanna go, like cabs, but in their own cars.

11/21/2008 Abigail E. says:

Hi, Michael!

Congratulations on getting accepted to CMU!  It's a great school!

I grew up in the Pittsburgh area before heading off to school at PSU in State College, PA.  Pittsburgh is a historical town, about half of the size of Austin (300,000).  The only bad news is that Pittsburgh is a city with a lot of older people - it has a low population of young people and twenty-somethings.  

1.  Public transportation is okay - it's not great, but it will get you where you need to go.  If you can afford to bring a car or can find cheap parking, I'd bring one.  There aren't really any nice grocery stores in the city and the "T" and most buses stop running after a certain time.  You can buy an unlimited bus/T pass for around $90 a month.  Check specific schedules here:  http://www.portauthori...

2.  Despite its lack of a younger population, Pittsburgh is a very livable city.  You can find a pretty nice place for $700.  Check Craigslist.  The South Side is a very hip area where rent is still relatively cheap.  Parking can be a pain, though, so make sure you ask where you can park your car if you plan to bring one.

3.  Downtown Pittsburgh shuts down at 5:00 p.m.  However, areas like Oakland, the Strip District and the South Side have a wide variety of clubs, restaurants and bars to choose from.

4.  For the most part, alcohol here is pretty cheap, especially in an area that is heavily populated with college kids.  

5.  Hmmm...not sure about this one.  Like I said before, Pittsburgh's population is mostly older.  Make of that what you will.  

6.  I wouldn't worry about standing out.  Most people here are pretty friendly and welcome newcomers.