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Point Reyes National Seashore
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Categories: Parks, Landmarks & Historical Buildings [Edit]
1 Bear Valley RdPoint Reyes Station, CA 94956
(415) 663-1835
- Good for Kids:
- Yes
91 reviews for Point Reyes National Seashore
Our original plan was to spend a day in glorious wine country. However, after spending a week with my too fun colleagues in SF I couldn't fathom another glass of wine. Instead I had a desire to work off all the alcohol and bad food I had eaten earlier in the week. And so my hubby and I searched Yelp for a hike...
The next morning we packed a oh so fancy picnic consisting of peanut butter sandwiches, laced up our sneakers, and embarked on a beautiful drive to Marin County for a hike. There were a few different options, but we opted for the long yet easy 8 mile hike to Arch Rock.
The view at Arch Rock was breathtaking...even thru the lovely SF fog. We spent 20 minutes or so taking it in before embarking on the 4 mile journey back to our car. By the end of the hike our legs were aching, but we loved every bit of it. It was a fantastic day...(almost) as much fun as a day in wine country!
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We love day hikes and got up early Saturday morning to do the Point Reyes loop of about 11 miles through various terrain.
After a series of small mishaps in the morning (I forgot our water, and we realized we were going clockwise instead of counterclockwise on our trail), we set a good pace through the lush forest of Bear Valley, and had lunch on Arch Rock overlooking the Pacific. It was a gorgeous and clear day with massive pelicans zooming across the skyline and an overly eager gull standing a few feet away from our picnic, with its beady little eyes focused squarely on our food the entire time.
We took the switchbacks up Sky Trail to a beautiful meadow terrain and then down Mt. Wittenberg, through the heavily wooded landscape back to our starting point.
The facilities are top-notch and the visitor's center is totally awesome. The rangers are friendly and informative and we got some pamphlets for kayaking/camping out on Point Reyes for our next trip back to the area.
This is one of the best hikes for those who enjoy varied terrain and a difficult series of inclines. Horses are allowed on this trail so you'll have to dodge some serious horseshit along the way, but it's of no consequence for the avid naturalist.
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We camped at Campsite #10 of SKY CAMP at the Pt Reyes National Seashore: http://www.nps.gov/por...
Sky Camp is about a 1.2 mile upward hike from the parking lot. We were there on one of the hottest days of the year and it was still very doable- even for a first time out of shape camper like myself and my 9 year old. Along the way, you can expect very few other passerby's...in fact, most of the way, you only hear the sound of chirping birds and your own thumping heartbeat.
Campsite #10 is one of the highest sites at Sky Camp with a SPECTACULAR view of the ocean but there were no shady areas. All of the sites are slightly buried behind trees and bushes and allow for privacy. Each campsite comes with a storage unit for food and a grill (although no wood files allowed). The campsites are close to the bathrooms and drinking water. *The non-flush bathrooms unfortunately, reeked but perhaps due to extremely warm weather while we were there.*
After setting up camp, we hiked back to the car and drove the surrounding area and found a grocery store and a cute bakery (Busy Bee) on Sir Francis Drake where we escaped the heat for a short while, before heading to the Lighthouse. We arrived still in our tanks and were not prepared for the drastic, drastic change in weather upon arrival at the Lighthouse- very, very chilly wind and foggy. Even though it was close to 100 at the warmest part of the day, by night, the temperature dropped to the 50's and got pretty wet by the next morning.
At $15 per night, this is a huge deal for the adventure/ escape from city life!
I may be a bit biased, since this is my hometown and all, but I just had the best experience!
A large group of friends and I had a campout on Tomales beach. It was so much fun! Beautiful scenery, beautiful weather. The park made it very simple to get a camping permit, just in-and-out at the visitor center.
Be sure to reserve a camping permit several weeks before your date as they often fill up. Only a certain number of people can stay at each beach each night, which also makes for non-crowded beaches. Good!
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Standing in front of massive waves, with luscious green hills in the distance, the black speckled sand painted with washed ashore seaweed crunching beneath your old sneakers - it is hard to fathom that you just came from a hustling go-go-go city.
The air smells salty and fresh and there is no one in sight.
Literally no one.
You could walk the sand for an hour and still be alone.
People say that nature is a great escape. But when you come out here to watch nature do her thing - you realize you're not escaping - you're coming home (minus the clothes strewn on the floor and empty Good Earth containers)
And as you make the trip hope winding around on narrow roads, with Peter Frampton bumping on the radio, Point Reyes waving good-bye in the background - you make a promise to come back to your healthier, natural, and cleaner home soon.
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On a recent visit to Point Reyes, plans to visit the lighthouse on an amazing clear sunny day were denied because of a cursedly tiny parking lot. Dejected, we retreated to an area I'd never explored, namely, the Chimney Rock trail.
After a quick hike of just under a mile, I reached the edge of cliff and stood, amazed, at one of the most amazing vistas I'd think I'll ever encounter. To my right, the rocky black peaks of Farallone Islands were clearly visible (I didn't realize just how close to the mainland they really are!), framed against a brilliantly blue Pacific. To my left, I could trace the green lines of the coast all the way into the broad shoulders framing the red arches of the golden gate bridge.
I've lived in California my entire life and used to think I'd explored just about all of the coast at one time or another. To discover that such amazing sites are still out there, just waiting to be found, is both tremendously humbling and enormously moving.
I will be back.
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This has got to be one of the most beautiful places to hike in California...if not the entire United States. There are so many different trails to take and different things to see.
Yesterday, we hiked from the Bear Valley Trail to the Glen Trail to the Coast Trail and went as far as the overlook to Wildcat camp grounds and lake. Round trip was about 12 miles in about 4.25 hours. What an absolutely gorgeous day! Light breezes and temps in the low to mid 70's.
The poppies and other wild flowers are still in bloom.
Most people like to take the Bear Valley Trail out to Arch Rock...it is very popular and just about any level of hiker can do that hike. If you want more of a challenge, veer off to the Glen Trail or some of the other trails for another viewpoint and experience.
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I love Point Reyes! We arrived a little after 10:30 am at the Bear Valley Visitor Center to pick up a trail map. We had our delicious sandwiches we picked up at the Cheese Factory on the way to the Pt. Reyes on the beach. Since it was a Friday, the beach was not crowded. After our yummy lunch, we headed off to find a nice long trail to walk off our lunch.
Visit their web site before you go to find out what trail you want to hike or walk. The website gives you the miles and time allowed for each hike. We parked at the Laguna Trail lot (small parking lot near the education center/camp) and started at the Coast Trail, ended up at the beach and continue to up the Fire Lane Trail and than end at Laguna Trail. A great hike, about 5 miles (we think). Sign posted on the trail, so you can't get lost. The trails were not crowded, even though we were on the coast, it got hot on the hike especially going up the Fire Lane Trail.
Suggestion: The trail we hiked was not a different, but if you don't like going up the hill, start at the Laguna Trail to the Coast Trail, because you be declining on the Fire Lane Trail rather than incline.
Also, watch out for horse droppings; apparently, you should have your dog on leash and clean up after them, but the horse droppings can be anywhere and everywhere. Yuck!
Gorgeous view of the beaches and the drive there is so much fun. Downtown is quite nice and the people are nice as well. We were there for the Sand Castle competition and there was a lot of people but it was fun.
I would love to go visit again.
Went hiking at Pt Reyes on Sat 4/4/09. Starting from San Lorenzo it took 1.5 hrs to get to Bear Valley Visitor Center. Asked the ranger about the shuttle - it was mandatory - during Dec-April it's required to take it.
So we drove to Drakes Beach - where there's the Ken Patrick Visitor Center to buy tickets. $5pp, $2.50 if you have the National Parks passes or someone in your party does - allow 3 others.
First stop on the shuttle is to the Lighthouse. It stops near the parking lot, bathrooms available. 0.4 mi to lighthouse. Walk is 300 steps Down first to lighthouse. Lighthouse Visitor Center is before the stairs down.
2nd stop: Chimney Rock. You can do the short hike to Chimney Rock 2 mi partial loop hike, easy. Lots of Great views of the Ocean, cliffs, Elephant Seals. Then walk to the boathouse - we didn't and it was closed when we went. Then walk to the Elephant Seal Overlook - more Elephant Seals to see. Some were in the water swimming, others just lying around. Bathrooms available near parking lot.
3rd stop: back to Drakes Beach. There's a short hike: Peter Behr Overlook that's paved, bit steep. Nice views. You can also walk on the beach. There's also Drakes Beach Cafe to grab some food - pricey, local, organic food. Ken Patrick Visitor Center - small, but some nice display & info. Bathrooms available.
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1 Previous Review: Show all »
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4/18/2006
I love hiking in Point Reyes National Seashore. Just awesome. Get a map from headquarters before… Read more »
The Arch Rock Hike is my all time favorite hike - 3.25 miles out from a parking area to the ocean - 3.25 back the same way you came. Perfect for a lunch picnic if you time it right. Just head on out around 11 - hit the ocean...eat...do some yoga...play a little...
head back for a very nice - non-stressful...beautiful walk/hike back the same way you came in. Can bring your bike part of the way if you want...but there is no need unless you're in a rush. Easy walking and hiking the whole way. Lots of things to look at and varied amounts of sun, trees, water and shade. Just beautiful.
Must DO - SEE - HIKE - ENJOY!
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I'm enjoying my lunch, reminiscing about the weekend.... knowing I'm addicted to Yelp after a Monday morning conversation that went something like this:
Jeff: Hey Andrew. What'd you do this weekend?
Andrew: I went to Point Reyes with a friend. It was nice. The beach was beautiful but the hike was eh.
Jeff: You know Andrew, I think you only do the things you do over the weekend so you can write a yelp review about it.
And although the thought of never having visited; thus never having reviewed Point Reyes did pop into my head when the conversation of 'where should we hike?' came up... I was still more excited for the destination and the company than I was the review.
This review is a tear between 2 and 5 stars. So, I've settled for 4 stars, knowing there's a lot to Point Reyes that I didn't experience.
We took the Coast Trail. Don't waste your time unless you're with a huge group of inexperienced hikers or anyone with any uncertainties around hiking. Because it's more of a walk. The trail is half emergency road (aka dirt road, level and wide) and super walked trail. It wasn't what we were looking for, especially my hiking partner. It was anticlimactic. He was unimpressed. I didn't mind. A walk's a walk. But this wasn't a hike.
The Santa Maria Beach, a small detour we took, which is only 1 minute from the trail, is BEAUTIFUL. Clean blue-green water, low waves, sandy beaches, small dunes to bask in the sunlight, and a great view of the bay. This felt like a great summer beach destination. Perhaps a weekend camping trip of some sort. Wow. It was much nicer than Stinson Beach and Half Moon Bay - in my opinion.
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If you have not visited this location shame on you. I think this must be where heaven and earth meet. Go to Bear Valley visitor center. There is a trail that goes West it leads to the water (you might want to ask). It is a long hike maybe 4 miles each way. Picture a damp trail with so many trees you think you are in the tropics. The sound of the river follows the entire path eventually meeting the Pacific Ocean and Arch Rock. You could also do this on a bike although I liked walking it. I think I even ran it once. You won't be sorry. There are so many trails in this span of seashore I doubt you could take a bad path. Wear layers and bring a lot of snack and lunch.
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One of the most beautiful places on EARTH. Let's work rogether to preserve this global treasure.
Parents - take your children here.
Do not litter on the grounds. Conserve and preserve this wonderous parkland.
Pictures can nto do it justice. Come see it for yourself.
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We went for wild flower on the last weekend of March but didn't see too much yet. But the Chimney Rock trail was nice for a short hike.
A lot of cows in the ranch and deer on the hill. The cliff view was breathtaking too.
I was looking for a blanket of wild flowers on the hill. Not sure where I can find it in the bayarea.
I took my newly purchased mountain bike out from One Mesa, straight down Hwy 1 to the Point Reyes visitor center (about 3 mi), then did the Bear Valley trail up until the point where bikes are no longer allowed. There was some slight downhill and slight uphill (and since I'm out of shape) this worked out well for me. I got enough of a workout on this 3 mi trail but I didn't die or need to be brought back on a stretcher. 12 miles total. Beautiful, shaded (by trees) and scenic, part of it is by the creek? river?
We were here on a Friday and it was peaceful and beautiful. It's the most peaceful place in the bay area, especially if you hike a little. Some areas, we were the only ones there.
We went to the lighthouse, chimney rock and tule elk reserve. We saw elephant seals (not as near as Ano Nuevo but still pretty good) and elk. We were lucky to catch the elk in a valley near Tomales Bay and also up close by the road on our way out! Unfortunately, we didn't sight any whales but we can try again some other time.
Highway 1/Big Sur is flashy and dramatic but Point Reyes has a quiet beauty that brings peace to your soul after the rat race in the bay area. I totally get the raves now.
A perfect way to spend a day.
Well...after rescheduling The Estero hike twice (due to rain), I decided to give this trail a third try. The sky was overcast, and the walk was a casual-relaxing one...with clean padded paths leading into a hilly climb, then onwards onto rolling green hills. Although we became "side tracked" (a.k.a. lost) for a short while, we had no trouble making it back to the main Estero Trail. Everyone was having a great time, laughing, talking, and watching out for "evidence" of cows while putting foot to trail.
On our return trek, when entering the wooded area, the rain began falling from the murky heavens. Thankfully, our hike was finishing up just in time, our cars were around the bend, and we didn't get too soaked- finishing at about 3pm was good timing.
This trail is pretty good-open and clean, if you veer off into the rolling hills...well...be prepaired to have your eyes fixed on the ground as most of the hike is accented with the "essence" of Bovine.
I'm rating this as a three (3) star as the trail was okay and the difficulty wasn't all that impressive. The folks that joined me on the hike enjoyed it very much, although...their eyes were on the ground most of the time as there were far too many cow patties on the trail we took. In all, this trail is okay-not as impressive as The Dipsea or Alamere Falls trails though...
If you want to take first time hikers out on a laid back hiking adventure, then I recommend this trail for you and your friends. If you are the sort that is seeking a more challanging hike...then...this trail may not be for you.
I used to live in Inverness and I completely loved it. For those who are looking for a nice day trip, this is a great place to visit.
The hike on Estero Trail is filled with awesome sights. It's perfect for the non-intense hiker, as most of the trail is flat, though there are slight inclines here and there. We ran into a herd of cows, almost mistook a dead sea lion washed up on the beach as a large rock, and found a starfish that looked like Peach from "Finding Nemo" (really, it does: http://www.yelp.com/ev...).
Make sure you layer your clothes (it gets cold and hot along the way) and pack a lunch to enjoy once you arrive on the beach. And whatever you do, DON'T poke the sea anemones. Nicole poked about 30 of them and suddenly fell ill. My fireman attributed it to the sea anemones.
I researched it after he made the diagnosis. From Wikipedia:
"When the hair is touched, it mechanically triggers the cell explosion, a harpoon-like structure which attaches to organisms that trigger it, and injects a dose of poison in the flesh of the aggressor or prey. This gives the anemone its characteristic sticky feeling.
The poison is a mix of toxins, including neurotoxins, which paralyze the prey, which is then moved by the tentacles to the mouth/anus for digestion inside the gastrovascular cavity."
LOOK, but don't touch, kiddies!
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Wonderful! I have been here many times and finally reviewing it! Chimney rock trail is nice and short...often very windy. Great view of the elephant seals on the beaches and rocks below. The tule elk reserve is also a mellow hike in the sun and you always see lots of elk. The lighthouse is a nice stop and you can see the gray whale migration if you are there in March-May (northbound) and January-February (southbound). Really beautiful coastline and park!
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I know we only made it to Drakes Bay ... but apparently according to all the photos ... there is TONS to Point Reyes! I want to go back. Missed so much but it does take a long time to get there ... so prepare.
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Point Reyes National Seashore deserves five stars for its natural beauty. How can you improve, really? Even the cows grazing in the pastures along Highway 1 on the way into the park are better-looking than the average cows...
But I'm knocking one star off because, for the unacquainted visitor, it's REALLY hard to navigate. The park is huge, and the main visitor center is all the way up near Point Reyes Station. So if you're on a quest for info first and you head there, and then discover that you'd like to hike, say, up the south branch of the Coast Trail, you then get to return to your car and drive HALF AN HOUR BACK DOWN HIGHWAY 1 to get to the trailhead.
Seriously, WTF doesn't even cut it. Why aren't there smaller visitor information outposts at the north and south entrances to the park?
Trailhead markings are just so-so, but getting lost here isn't such a bad thing, anyway. The coast is gorgeous, of course, but try some of the less-traveled paths that lead away from it, like the Palomarin Trail up to Bass Lake. Lunching by the still, secluded lake makes for a nice mid-hike break.
And if the weather is nice, a quick dip in the frigid water makes for a sure way to cool off (no rip tides, either).
IF you're a crazy hippie. I'm just sayin'...
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You can't go wrong with this place, and you forget how close you are to a metro area! This is one of the jewels of California that everyone should visit.
From the Bear Valley entrance, we took the Mt. Wittenberg trail up to Mt. Wittenberg, continued on the Sky trail along the ridge (where you can see some great ocean views) back down the ridge on the Old Pine Trail to the beautiful Divide Meadow, and to the Bera Valley Trail at the entrance.
Depending on your fitness level, the climb up might be steep (but doable), but if you take it slow and start early, that would be one of your best bets. Then, you'll have time afterwards for a meal or coffee in either Olema or Pt. Reyes Station!
I love Point Reyes and Point Reyes loves me. Really, it's true. Our love affair began when I was in grade school and came up here on field trips to walk the Earthquake Trail and learn about the Miwok Indians. After we knew each other better, I began spending the night. I took care of it, removing non-native plants and clearing brush on a trail adopted by my high school. I watched the sunset from its shore. I rested my head on it while I watched for shooting stars. I woke in the morning refreshed and relaxed, eager for whatever the day might bring.
Sadly, our relationship is now long-distance, as it is simply too difficult for me to visit very regularly. However, it will always hold a special place in my heart, no matter how far away it may be.
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EARTHQUAKE Trail review.
Some of us are definitely Hiking Wimps. I currently have trouble walking due to neuropathy. But the Earthquake Trail is quite do-able for me with my cane. It is a little over a half a mile on paved, mostly flat and party shady trail.
You get a history lesson as you stroll down the trail. Blue markers on the hillside indicate the San Andreas Fault. A 3 foot gap in the fence shows much the ground "shifted."
We have many fond memories of this trail. When our son was just learning to walk we took him here and wore his little "arse" off. The hikes lasted through toddler hood and the tween years. The hike is short enough to avoid complaints but scenic and interesting enough for
those tween years when most excursions are met with a "rolling the eyeballs" reaction.
Thank goodness for Bovine Bakery (in Point Reyes Station) as an incentive for any hike and visit to Point Reyes.
http://www.yelp.com/us...
Our latest hike on the Earthquake Trail was as lovely as ever. There were still plenty of poppies along the trail.
See my pix.
We have been to Point Reyes no less than 50 times over the years.
We have been to every beach and hiked almost every trail. We have seen the elk, whales, squirrels and many other critters.......that will have to go on future reviews!
We are so lucky to have such a fantastically beautiful national park like Point Reyes right on our backyard.
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I walked the Earthquake Trail with my geography classmates. Wasn't worth the trip really, but if you are into this kind of thing then it might be for you. Also they had some Indian houses on display outside.
Some people think the Point Reyes area is very beautiful, but to me it looks more like the setting for a Mad Max movie. There are a lot of students tourists hiking around. There is a part of the shore where there are really big rocks and you can climb on them. The second time I went to Point Reyes National Seashore with some friends we almost got lost. Maybe it was the drugs.
Anyways, I don't plan on ever going back to the Point Reyes In Middle of Nowhere National Seashore. I would rather go to Big Sur or somewhere else. But I don't want to knock Pt Reyes because some people love it, so for objectivity I'll throw in an extra star and up my review to 4 stars.
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Abbott's Lagoon, among other places...
a beautiful mile & a half walk, not really a hike, by pastures with mooing cows and marshes with a thousand birds, a little bridge at the end lets you know you are there, along this protected little cove, or go a bit farther across the sand and up the crest to watch the big ones crash on the beach.
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Went here with Boyfriend for relief from the heat over the weekend. WARNING! Lighthouse is MUCH further than the .4 miles they claim when you start the hike. It's .4 to the visitor center. Beyond the visitor center there's a short walk to set of stairs with a sign that reads something to the effect of "going to the lighthouse is the equivalent of walking a 30 story building." And that definitely means 30 stories BOTH ways. The walk down is even strenuous. You MUST be fit to do this walk. It really is quite a trek. Was it worth it at the bottom? Totally! Was it worth it looking back down on the bottom from the top panting and seeking water? I'm not so sure. It's definitely something to see once. I'm positive we won't be going back to the lighthouse. Ever. We love to hike on a beautiful day but when we're trying to beat the heat back home, we're not necessarily looking to work up a sweat somewhere else!
I must say, for a state park, the bathrooms are nicely maintained. This is a very well-kept piece of coastline with lots of wildlife and beautiful vistas. The beaches I would definitely come back to and do so periodically. Our favorite is South Beach. It's always quite and relaxing.
Pauline, was one of a handful of 'older' people who worked in my cubicle farm of mostly 20-something geeky males fielding support calls for Apple's top customers at the time (my first and last phone support job thank god) in early 1997. She's probably not unlike someone you've met before: about 45, single, quite overweight, long straight greasy salt-n-pepper hair, probably 6 or more cats at home, likely experimented in wicca at some point in her life, had the distinct possibility of getting into a lengthy uncomfortable conversation with you... Basically the talkative female equivalent of the "I believe you have my stapler" guy.
I usually avoided Pauline, but I was going around the office saying my goodbyes during my last week of employment, and stopped and talked to her for a few minutes. Said, "Yeah I'm moving to San Francisco, for the music and the .com boom. I can't wait..." and she said "Oh that's nice, good luck out there. But just so you know, California is going to be all underwater very soon. Have you seen my future map?"
Uhhh, what?
She turns and points to her cubicle wall! I shit you not, a full scale map of the United States with most of the west coast covered in the Pacific Ocean, on the wall of her cube. I remember her saying it was going to happen soon, like by 1999. I was pretty speechless, but probably managed to get out something like "oh, that's really interesting."
I remember Pauline and chuckle silently at this story every time I sit along the California coast and see something like this...
http://farm3.static.fl...
As I took this picture, took in the beauty, and thought about the "Pauline story" this weekend, I thought - I have GOT to look up this future map on the web and see where she got this crazy ass prediction from. Didn't take long on google...
http://www.larrywinfie...
It kind of had to be 'futurist' Gordon-Michael Scallion's bold prediction of the changes that will be occurring from 1998-2012. Of course earlier he predicted 1993-1998, then conveniently changed it. Nice work there modern-day Nostradamus! These future visions came to him while having near-death experiences, and while in a trance. Oh well, don't despair Gordon-Michael, this happened a lot over the course of history to the Doomsday/Apocalypse/End Times prophets. Apocalyptic predictions go back 1000's of years, and were all the rage in the 1970's. Surely we were going to hell because of all the hippies. The Jehovah's witnesses have predicted the end of times nearly every decade for 100 years, until they finally gave up in 1995.
Comets, Earthquakes, 9/11, Tsunami's, UFO's, Rodney King riots, Four Horseman... ? Many variations, but a couple of things you can always count on: the return of Jesus, and lots and lots of earthquakes. ;-)
Now another interesting twist this year, was my visit to Tikal and learning about the Mayans. 2012 is supposed to be a BIG year. It is the year they predicted would be "the completion of the thirteenth B'ak'tun cycle in the Long Count of the Maya calendar (December 21 to be exact) to mean there will be a major change in world order. Or possibly the end of times. Or aliens landing on earth. Or the end of the U.S. as a world power. We can't be certain what they meant... but don't panic. Interesting at least that 2012 will be an election year!
How was that for a digression?
I had another outdoor California excursion this weekend. I hiked 17 miles ( o.O ) up the coast between Bolinas and Pt. Reyes, camping halfway in between, with an internet buddy and 2 of her friends - all 10 years my junior. (so goes my social life these days, heh) This was actually the first time I've actually hiked many miles with camping gear, and I've camped a lot, and backpacked around the world. This was different though. I'm not gonna lie, it was pretty tough, and I wasn't even the worse off member of the four. Man am I hurting today!
We parked my friends car at Limantour camp (the end) and drove my car to Palomarin Beach, hiked through a lot of varied terrain, past lakes, through forest, until we got to Glen Camp. We made it just in time before dark to set up camp and eat. We had some laughs before getting to sleep. The sounds of the forest, especially early in the morning, were incredible. It sounded like the jungle, and reminded me of "why" we do something as ridiculous as carrying 30 pounds of crap 8 miles on your back only to freeze your ass off through the night.
I assure you, rest of the world, the California coast is still alive, well, and remarkable.
But check back with me in December 2012 just in case. Because if the Mayans didn't get it right, then no one ever will.
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My s e c r e t place
There is a small sliver of sand and surf that remains private to me and my mental state of calm being and retrospective intentions. A place I grew up and has been a place of solitude and recollections. This is tucked somewhere along this wide expanse known as the Point Reyes National Seashore.
As a child, my father would pack the family into the car and we'd alight upon this special place, replete with sand that starts out as mini pebbles near the cliffs and as one descended upon the shoreline, became fine sand, which around 4:00 pm , would whip up in a frenzy due to the oncoming evening winds and prick the back of my legs, like a million little needles. I'd run back towards the parking lot, wrapping a towel around my legs, as if to rescue them.
I remember things.
I remember the errant log washed up on the shore. Sitting on it and watching my father cast his line out over the waves to the school of Surf Perch waiting, motionless in the moving current and right near the drop.
I remember watching the waves crash down, a thunderous noise in my ears, against the packed sand. It remained, dark, in mute response.
Sometimes the local DNR officer would ride by on the horse, and nod and tip his hat at us, while my sister and I made busy with patting the warm sand around our legs. Encasing them in a sandy mold.
I remember.
As an adult, this place of childhood memories is my respite from all things considered complex and tedious. My drive there is inducing and I immediately feel calm, with the windows down and the air rushing past my face. My pup, in the backseat, cranes her neck out and one can see her ears, flapping in response. I've made lunch, brought along my favorite Dostoevsky book, a sketch pad and water for the puparoo.
I've spent hours on this beach. Taking in the sun. Watching the waves break and recoil from the shoreline and the flock of Grey pelicans take flight over the water. When the evening winds pick up, it's a small nudge from nature persuading us to leave, and I feel this, a hundred little pricks to the back of my legs. The sand begins to swirl and builds up in the cuffs of my jeans.
A secret place. Mine.
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A slam dunk fun day. Be it hiking, biking, or just walking on the beach Point reyes will not let you down.
This is one of the those places in California that reminds you that you live in the greatest state/area in the world.
Don't forget your camera and try to get there in early spring to check out the whales migrating!
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Josh Gannis and I love hiking here!
I have logged more miles on the trail than all but the most ardent hikers, and in an awful lot of scenic places, so when I say that a hiking trail is "good," you can be sure that it is. On a good day, when the trail is not socked in by fog, the Tomales Point Trail ranks in my book as one of the best trails around. Period.
The hike starts on a peninsula and the trail continues down the peninsula, to the end, for several miles until the end of the trail (and peninsula). The farther you go, the narrower the peninsula becomes. For much of the year, there are beautiful flowers all around you. An herd of elk also resides alongside the trail. You are surrounded by classic California coastline. To the east are coastal mountains in the Sonoma region. If you are very, very lucky (and this is rare), you'll get to see them snowcapped after a winter dusting of snow.
This place is so beautiful that it is seared in my brain--even though I have not been there in years. If you are a nature lover and you can go, then you must. It will not disappoint!
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This place is FREE guys! A nice break after running all over the Bay Area paying $6 bucks a pop in all the parks. Also? It's beautiful. Really, really beautiful. We've been doing a lot of exploring Northern Cal lately, going on lots of drives and hikes. Pt Reyes is way up there on the favorites list now.
We did the Sky - Bear Valley Loop (10.5 mi.) described as a nice varied hike, through mixed Douglas fir forest, meadows and chaparral and also open grass with coastal views and beach access.
This particular hike was a killer starting out on the Mt. Wittenberg Trail as it climbs 1300 feet in 1.8 miles - a lot of uphill. It was also a bit crowded but it did thin out thankfully. i hate crowded hiking trails. Blech. Luckily a lot of that climbing is in the shade, through forests with nice coastal breezes. It continued to the Sky Trail and then the Coast Trail, with lots of ocean views and leveled out to a more reasonable trek. You wind up coming back to the start via the Bear Valley Trail which is the main trail in the park and the one that most people take as it's a straight shot from the visitors center to the ocean. Bear Valley Trail is gorgeous as it passes through beautiful buckeyes and mixed Douglas forest and along Coast Creek. An added bonus it it's fairly flat, wide and free of ruts so your weary legs have it easy on the home stretch.
Definitely a 5 star place.
Update 8/21/07 - Back for more: Estero Trail to Drakes Head hike this weekend (9.5 miles). Be careful and wear sunscreen as this entire hike is out in the open, no shade. We were blessed about halfway through with some increcibly beautiful and cooling fog that made this hike much more enjoyable. Great views.
Animals spotted: 1 snake, several deer including a mama and baby that never took their eyes off us, bat rays, a leopard shark (from very close up) two owls and lots of bunnies.
Update 9/8/07: Tomales Point Trail (9.5 miles). This is another great hike - although it's not sheltered by any trees it's got fantastic coastal breezes and was very comfortable and probably is all year round. There are elk everywhere, even very close up deep into the hike. Towards the end it gets sandy, which sucks, but isn't too overgrown and we didn't find a need for long sleeves and pants. I had an urge to turn around as I hate trying to walk in sand but we didn't and the payoff at the end is stunningly gorgeous and worth it. You're at the tip of Tomales Point surrounded on three sides by water and it's just gorgeous and serene. This would be a fantastic spot to watch a storm if it wasn't a 4.75 mile trek to get out there!
Update 1/2/08: Coast Trail from Palomarin trailhead in the South part of the park - almost 13 miles round trip. Did this hike for New Years Day including the .8 offshoot to the falls. This trail went all the way out to Wildcat campground (a hike-in only campground) and was pleasant, with great views and not too terribly strenuous other than the fact that it was a long, long hike. Very enjoyable.
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There's no shortage of great hikes in Point Reyes. Here are a few that I've done, in order of easiest to hardest:
1) Bear Valley Trail to Arch Rock - 8.2 miles round trip and almost totally flat, this is the hike that you want to do if you're looking for an easy, very pretty hike. The trail goes out to Arch Rock and back so it's nearly impossible to get lost, and it's wide so this is a great hike for big groups. The arch itself is gorgeous - the top is the ideal place for a picnic, and don't miss the arch itself below. It's a bit of a steep climb down to see it, but it's worth it. I've been there at high tide when the water comes up past the arch, but the last time I was there it was low tide so we got to go out underneath the arch to the small beach on the other side. Be very careful if you do this - the tide might come in fast, and I'm guessing that rogue waves are not uncommon. Still, very cool.
2) Alamere Falls - Another fairly easy hike - 8.4 miles round-trip and mostly flat. The big waterfall crashing on to the beach is really something to see!
3) Tomales Point Trail - 9.4 miles round-trip, 900 feet. This hike is cool because it takes you out to (duh) Tomales Point, and it's really neat to be out on the tip of the peninsula with the ocean on one side and Bodega Bay on the other. You can also see tule elk here.
4) Mt. Whittenberg - This one's a lot tougher! We started out at Bear Valley and did a loop that included a stop at Arch Rock for a total of 11 miles. Elevation gain was about 1300 feet. And for our efforts, we were rewarded with...a pretty lame peak, actually. If someone hadn't told me that we were at the top I would have kept on walking. There's not much of a view from the top at all, it's really just a clearing surrounded by a lot of trees. Oh well - there are enough lovely views throughout the hike to make up for it!
One final word about Point Reyes: I've done these hikes various times at different points of the year and one thing holds true: you never know what kind of weather you're going to get! I've hiked Point Reyes on a sunny day in a tank top, and I've hiked it on a freezing, foggy day during which I never removed my fleece. Layers, layers, layers!
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We spent a wonderful afternoon driving up the two roads in Point Reyes. The views of Tomales Bay and the Pacific Ocean were gorgeous, and the mountainous terrain was very impressive.
Out at the north end of Pierce Point Road, we enjoyed the views of the large whitewashed Upper Pierce Ranch, and of Dillon Beach to the north. We found that the steep, sandy trail to McClures Beach was not a good idea in sandals, so we moved on. On our way back, Tracker Margaret spotted a herd of elk on a hillside off the road, led by a beautiful 7-point buck. As we watched through our binoculars, he went through all the classic elk poses for us, showing he was a truly professional elk.
Going down Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, we discovered the 13 "historic ranches," now occupied by working dairy farms. There were also two mountains with impressive forests on them.
We visited the lighthouse after closing, so we didn't get to climb the 300 feet of stairs. But the view from the old weather station above it was breathtaking. Walking and driving back from the lighthouse, we found the hills to be covered with deer.
We enjoyed seeing the park at a leisurely pace. Going into the Park it seemed vast, but coming out it seemed small.
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My favorite spots are North Beach and McClures Beach.
I usually go on weekdays and rarely see that many others, so I love coming here...
Great place to have divination and eat "exotic" plants...
This is our backyard???
We must be f*cking geniuses to live near here.
Went today for my first ever DYK and it was so perfectly gorgeous I could almost cry. Oh wait, maybe that's the sunburn on my neck talking. . . anyway. . .
So, the hikes from the main Bear Valley visitor center are spectacular and friendly to all on the hiking continuum - a pleasant 1-mile amble to the beach for the mellow outdoors-person, or for the hard-core trecker: strenuous backpacking to camp by the beach so that you can hear the ocean waves as you drift off into much needed sleep.
Today, we went on the Pierce Point trail (about 20 minutes north of the Bear Valley visitor center), which is the place to go during elk rutting season (best during September and early October). It's 9 miles roundtrip, but you certainly don't have to go all 9 miles if all you want to see is hot elk action and spectacular ocean views.
C'mon, animal sex in the fall, gorgeous wildflowers inundating the hillsides in the Spring. What more can you ask?
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Spectacular scenery in a relatively remote place. You could hike here a lifetime, and never tire of the beauty. Almost like a "lost world" when you head over that final ridge driving, and before you are acres and acres of unspoiled beauty. The area was deemed a National Seashore for preservation in 1963.
Diverse land. From miles of white sand seashores, to forests, to outlooks, to bays, to dairy ranches, all the way to the lighthouse at the end of the road. Camp out in Dec/Jan at the lighthouse base, and you will see the whales head by, guaranteed. Weather can go from gusty/windy/cold to sunny and cool.
Recommendation: stop at the Visitor's Center in Bear Valley. You'll find friendly rangers, and lots of maps. There is a working Morgan Horse ranch there, an Indian Villiage, and the earthquake trail. At the middle of that trail, right smack on top of the San Adreas fault line, you will see a fence split and now five feet apart. It was a single lined up fence, before the quake. Awesome to imagine.
There is an oyster farm where you can buy fresh oysters near Drake's Bay. Lovely spring flowers at Chimney rock, Thule Elk up on the north side. For you campers, it is really a paradise as you can get way, way out and in pure wilderness.
A triip to Pt. Reyes is a refreshing of your soul. When you head back over that first hill to civilization, you know you've left a part of you behind.
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